Most Incredible Day! Monday, July 20, 2009

[Again, Kathryn and I are posting these messages from our mom as she sends them to us through e-mail because she can't get access to Facebook or her blog. You can write back to her directly, though, at chow6569@gmail.com.]

Yesterday was a most incredible day! As we had planned, Ying and Duo picked me up to drive me to the Protestant church that Amelia had discovered for me to go to: Beijing Chongwenmen Christian Church, which had originally been built by Methodists in the late 1800’s (I wonder if my father’s great-aunt Elizabeth, who was a Methodist missionary to China, ever went there?) In order to get there, we had to drive down a crazily narrow street (and the only one I’ve seen so far that actually had a one-way arrow at the adit) through a hutong. Ying and I got out of the car and walked down the even-narrower street (no cars could get through) to the church. We started to see hundreds and hundreds of people coming towards us, and Ying said, “I had no idea so many people in Beijing went to church!” She had never been before, and was looking forward to seeing what a service would be like.

As we went through the courtyard entrance, a green-polo-shirted woman flashed an infrared thermometer at my forehead and another said something to Ying, who replied, of course in Chinese. We struggled on towards the alcove where English hymnals, Bibles, and orders of service were available. Another green lady spoke to Ying, who touched my arm and said, “I have to leave. I am not dressed properly.” “WHAT?” I exclaimed. “My shoes,” she said, pointed to her spangled flip-flops. I sputtered, “Tell them it’s your first time!” and she said, “No, I’d better go, call me when you are done.” My curiosity, I admit, outweighed my moral outrage at the exclusion, and I agreed to call her later and went on in. I figured out what kind of Protestant service this would be when I saw the two huge projection screens and the red neon cross, but I was still eager to participate in a service in China. The choir, with one particularly strong soprano, was practicing the hymn “Softly and Tenderly” from the dual-language hymnbook. The microphones were on, and the unseen singers’ voices filled the whole (noisy) sanctuary as about 800 of us gathered (the leaflet explained there were another 1200 seats in the undercroft, where the service could be viewed on closed-circuit TVs.) A piano accompanied the practice, and was the only instrument used throughout the service. I looked around, and noticed the similarities between this late 19th c. church and the one I grew up in, especially lots of dark wood moldings, wainscoting, window frames and sills and the abundance of Roman arches. This one is octagonal, though, and not as cheerful as Pilgrim Church was...

Then practice stopped, there was a rustle and a murmur, and in came in the choir (21 of them + leader) to a largo tempo, one foot plodding after another as if to a dirge and then the two ministers, Liturgist Liu Cuimin (woman) and Preacher Zhang Wezshe. All the while, the cluster of us non-feverish English speakers in the corner had our headphones on and were listening to a quiet-voiced Chinese woman simultaneously translate or freestyle explain what was happening. The service continued on, much like the Congregationalist ones I attended as a kid until right after the Bible readings. The woman minister announced that now was time for baptisms. Onto the enormous screen was projected the word “Baptism” in English (and, I assume the Chinese said the same thing) and there he was, Jesus of the flowing auburn hair, gathering people to him. So the minister asked the baptismees (?) to come forward and I was wondering if there was going to be immersion, but that didn’t happen. On the other hand, 39 young adults came forward and for the next 15 minutes or so, we said familiar prayers and listened as Liu Cuimin said (in Chinese) “I baptize you in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost.” The word I heard the most was “shén shèng”, which I discover means, “Holy.” After the new Christians had received a round of applause and returned to their seats, Liu Cuimin said the church was grateful that there were over 100 people to be baptized at this time, and the rite would be performed over four services.

After the choir’s rendition of some enthusiastic hymn, Pastor Zhang got up to preach on some Matthean passage about wicked generations and gnashing of teeth. I sat through it for about 25 minutes, with the preacher’s voice rising and falling, and his haranguing us about being human and not getting into the Kingdom of Heaven. Made me appreciate Adrian and Sarah even more than I usually do. Finally, frankly, I didn’t give a damn if I made a small scene, and took off my headphones and slipped out into the courtyard, where I breathed deeply and happily some fresh air. The sulfurous fumes of hellfire and scorched my sensibilities.

I called Ying, who said they hadn’t been able to find a parking place, and Duo would come for me in about a half hour. I took the time to walk around a bit. Down the alley from the church towards the Chongwen Subway station, I had to pass by a number of the lame and crippled, some sitting on the ground with their prosthetic legs or feet next to them, one lying on a filthy pallet and looking at me with imploring eyes. I will increase my donation to the Presiding Bishop’s Fund...

It was at the subway station that I saw the young man wearing the shirt of the Evil Empire and asked if I could take his picture. He smiled, said yes, and said carefully, “Yankees my favorite team.” I just sighed and said, “Boston Red Sox,” and wished I were wearing one of my seven R.S. shirts.

Ying and Duo brought me to meet their grandfather’s brother, Liu Laoshi (Teacher Liu), who is a Tai Chi Master. He has agreed to have me as a pupil while I am here. I met Teacher Liu is 80+ and is actually, the President of Yin/Yang Tai Chi in China. I don’t know if I’ve ever been so honored. We spent a little less than an hour together, and by the end I was dripping with sweat--it's not that hot today, but I was concentrating and working so hard. Amazing. Everything he said either Ying or Duo translated. First thing was: walk softly, gently (don't thump.) This after he saw me taking three steps towards him to shake his hand and bow. Then about qi--I need to get it out of my shoulders and into my belly. Then the hands, like gently touching the finest silk or holding a ball between the hands. Be as quiet as a cat waiting for a mouse. Keep the head even. Never step in a straight line, move your feet and hands in circles and be gentle gentle gentle. I am to practice for 30-40 minutes a day and go back in a week. Wow. This was the most important part of an amazing day, but I have the fewest words for it. I made a movie but can’t send it: it’s too long.

Teacher Liu actually lives in Lanzhou and had come in Beijing last month because he was very ill and needed the specialized care found only in hospitals here. He has only been up for about a week. When he did the opening Tai Chi sequence for me, Ying’s mother followed him, her hands up, ready to catch him if he stumbled. He didn’t. His every movement was graceful and beautiful. When he showed me a movement or corrected what I did, he was very gentle and very precise. Ying apologized, saying he was teaching me as a master, and everything had to be perfect. She said, “This is very basic and very important,” and I said, “Yes, it is fundamental, the foundation of everything.” Teacher Liu has always wanted to teach those of Ying and Duo’s generation and they have eschewed his offers. They did it with me yesterday, though, along with their mothers, so we had quite a class going in the elegant courtyard. Many other residents came and sat on the perimeter walls and watched. I was aware of them only vaguely, trying so hard to breathe, step, hold my arms and hands right, get the chi out of my shoulders and into my nelly, keep my front leg at a 45° angle, touch silk, not thump but walk as silently as a cat stalking a mouse. Amazing, amazing. What an opportunity, how lucky I am.

The day ended with a meeting. Four students, with some of their parents, have come from Lanzhou (where both Ying and Kongli’s families are from) to attend our classes. We all met and had dinner together last night at the sumptuous Xinjiang Hotel. We had a 12-course dinner which did not include (but was available) horse intestines and camel paws. Some of the food was so spicy I could only bring it near my lips but not into my mouth, but most of it was, as usual, delicious. The meal was (yin/yang) balanced as to color, texture, & flavor. There seemed to be as much left as we ate, and we all got to bring our favorites home (I just ate my lamb & rice for breakfast.)

I’ve run out of energy and words. Except for one thing. I have promised Ying that when she & Kongli visit me in Peterborough, we at All Saints’ will NOT make her leave if she is wearing sandals. I told her that actually, the only clothing incident I could imagine that might cause a reaction would be if someone showed up nude. Then we would take that person to the Serendipity Shop and let them choose what they wanted.

Much love to you all. Thanks for reading;