Someone asked me what the sidewalk water painter in yesterday’s batch of photos was doing--the painting is, I understand, a form of meditation & exercise. I’ve seen three or four men, in various places around town, creating such art. They are writing ancient verses in old style calligraphy--truly beautiful work, and certainly a reminder that things ephemeral can contain a world of meaning.
Which makes me think of Susan, one of my students. After my initial slide show, where I introduced myself and showed pictures of my family, my town and my few little spring plantlings, Susan came to class with her Powerpoint introducing herself. In it she mentioned that she loves to garden--indoors, in pots. A few days later she brought in oh, maybe two dozen pictures of her plants. Each one is so lovingly cared for, each one is treasured. She had taken some macro shots of tiny little delicate white flowers on one of her tiny plants--the whole thing only a few inches high. She glowed with pride as she looked at her beautiful pictures and told me about her garden.
Today’s classes were good, and once again I remember that I do know some things about teaching. In the adult class, we talked about the recession and how it is affecting ordinary Americans. We discussed questions about what has happened to the world economy and what our countries need to do to get us all out of this slump. Lots of interesting viewpoints--that there is a natural ebb & flow and we’re in an ebb, that there are some greedy people who wrecked the market with sub-prime mortgages, that it’s one of the prices we pay in America for a free market. These professors are so well-informed, literate, and serious--it’s a pleasure to teach them. I ended the time with giving them a pretend American family to budget for--total income (two parents working) was $108K, mortgage payments of $1100, twins 12 years old. We discussed braces for teeth, car loans, cable & utility bills, water heaters bursting, clothing needs. Every single one of the class members made putting money into savings the primary goal of the budget. When I threw at them that the family is hit with a 20% loss in income because of the work week being cut to four days, there was discussion about what could be eliminated (not as many new clothes, cut the cable) so the savings could continue.
One of the class members said that we should look at how much healthier the family will be: the parents will be home an extra day, being able to spend more time with the children. They will eat tastier and more nutritious meals at home instead of wasting money going out once or twice a week. And everyone can take long walks in the part together, increasing fitness.
Jasen gave his Powerpoint presentation on his family tree, and it was so beautiful and moving, many of us shed tears. (I asked him for a copy, which I have and will share if you want--just let me know.) He started with his great-grandfather, and noted two older aunts “who married, moved to their husbands’ homes far away, and we never heard from them again.” He talked about his grandfather, born in 1923, who became a Communist and follower of Mao before the New Country began in 1949. Grandfather was an outspoken, quick-tempered man, and perhaps for that reason he was stripped of party membership and exiled for ten years during the Cultural Revolution. He died in 1999 but, after investigation, the Party reinstated him posthumously and his widow was granted a pension. Jasen said how sad the family was that Grandfather did not live to know his Party had welcomed him back.
In the younger students’ class, I asked the kids if they knew any American holidays. In a couple of minutes, they called out ten of them. How many of us can name any Chinese holiday--New Year’s, maybe--but when is it? When I mentioned this incident today at dinner at Ying’s grandparents’ house, her father said, “Developing countries always must know everything about the countries they wish to emulate: African nations look to China, China looks to the United States.”
Yes, tonight is when we were honored with an invitation to eat with Ying’s grandparents, parents, aunts, uncles, & cousins. Goodness! There are few words to describe this remarkable evening. The menu alone was amazing. All the sisters-in-law cooked (and I think they had been preparing the meal all day.) Having learned that Kacie likes dumplings, they made hundreds of them--pork and beef. They were so delicious, Kacie ate ten. Duo ate 20, and others boasted that they used to eat 30 or 40, but tonight wouldn’t eat so many. For me they made Kung Pao chicken & they served three green vegetables--green beans, asparagus, and a romaine-like lettuce with a dressing gently poured on it. There was a beef with peppers dish, a kielbasa-like sausage from their home province north of Vladivostock, vegetable balls, steamed pumpkin, chicken wings, chicken legs, and sushi. For dessert, there was honeydew melon, native to Lanzhou, the city from which the family moved 12 years ago when Mr. Liu got his job in Beijing.
Ying’s father, an architect and director of his company, speaks no English but manages to communicate with some translation, lots of gestures, and expressive facial expressions. He was funny and affable, a wonderful host. I again mentioned my thanks that his uncle Liu Laoshi, had given me a private Tai Chi lesson. Everyone asked me to demonstrate what I had learned. Oh dear: I was reluctant to do so, not wishing to embarass myself or dishonor Liu Laoshi by my lack of grace. Finally I did get up and do a few moves, and Mr. Liu jumped up next to me and did the moves, too. (Ying knew her father was a Tai Chi master, but hadn’t seen him do any in years and years.) I stopped my actions but Mr. Liu kept going, ending up being very very funny (while still graceful and oh-so-expressive.) Luckily, cameras were making movies of all of this. When he drove us home, Duo told us that he has never seen his uncle so relaxed and funny!
Ying’s family, over and over again, told us that we now have a home in Beijing. They asked to see pictures of my grandchildren--which of course was no problem--and all four received many compliments. Mr. Liu said to me, “You are the grandmother to many children,” a compliment I received with gratitude. He then asked when I would please bring the older boys to Beijing. I told him I will figure something out...I was blessed with a kiss from the 13-month old Zoe, who also said “Mummu!” (Everyone liked my Finnish grandmother name, and the older women all called me that throughout the eveing!) Zoe waved bye-bye when we left, and the entire clan walked us to the elevator to say goodbye.
We have two more days of teaching--it will be sad to say good-bye to our remarkable first group of students. But we already have plans to go to a couple of tourist sites with them on Saturday and Sunday and supper, lunch, and shopping plans for next week!
Whew. Thanks for reading.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Monday, July 27, 2009
Monday, July 27, 2009
Kacie and I have been worried about our fish--two showed up with white spots on their backs and then the pump started sounding really funny. So Ying had a consultation with a person at the pet store and came last night with a new pump and drops for the fish pond. She also suggested we fill the pond higher, so we added a couple of gallons of water. The fish seemed happy, and we fed them and they were dancing in the tank, glad to get order restored in their lives.
Sad to say, the party must have become too wild after I fell asleep: when I woke up this morning, one of the fat, beautiful, healthy ones had jumped for joy a little too high, and was on the floor, still golden and bright, but dried and dead. Darn.
They are all flapping happy to see me, though, and just gathered around for some snacks and conversation. Funny how one, missing two kitties, can start thinking fish are cute.
Another funny thing that I keep forgetting to tell you is that last week when Kongli had to drive Kacie to the police station to get her resident permit, he called Duo to ask for directions. Duo told Kongli to ask ME since I’d been there twice already. What a riot. After Kongli got us in the near vicinity, I was able to point down a street, where Kacie saw a sign that said, “P-O-L-I-C-E,” and we were there!
Saturday morning I dedicated my life to getting my nails done. When I first arrived, Ying and I had had manicures at a fancy mall, and she had told me that it’s so inexpensive around here, people often get them at least once or even twice a week. I figured bright red polish would be no problem. After a week, though, we never had made it back to any nail salon and so I started to try to find nail polish remover. Try asking for that in pantomime to sales clerks who get manicures twice a week. Couldn’t find any, anywhere. Friday at Silk Market, Kacie and I were all set to have mani/pedi treats, but decided it was too expensive there (tourist trap?) and our neighborhood nail salon would be better. Trouble was, we couldn’t find one. So we gave up.
Which brings us to Saturday morning and my determination to get my nails done in our neighborhood. I walked up one side of Maliandao East and then up Maliandao South and then back. I saw lots of things--a man burning trash on a sidewalk, a mother holding a baby so he could pee on the sidewalk, thousands of bikes parked at the local supermarket, a huge argument between two drivers (with the one who had gotten out his car reaching in and grabbing the other guy’s shirt and almost pulling hi through the window until a policeman sauntered over, told him to quit it, and he got back into this car and drove off)--but no nail salon. I knew I was running out of time: we were heading for the Summer Palace at 12:30 and it was already 11. In despair, I walked home on the shady side of the street, and what did I see but a woman getting her nails done in the front window of a shoe store! PERFECT!
I went in and made some new friends. Susan (Su San), a travel agent, was visiting from the North and spoke perfect English. The owner of the shop was a model-beautiful tall, thin, graceful woman wearing a gorgeous red dress and high sandals who looked like she stepped off the cover of Vogue. I sat and they chatted and we chatted and finally it was my turn. I hope you all have admired my sparkly pinkly purple nails (Lila suggested the color I should get). Su San gave me her phone number and told me to call if I ever need help with anything. I thanked her, and told the owner of the shop that I would be back--soon and often.
The high points of our visit to the Summer Palace, the huge residence built mostly by the wicked Dowager Empress Cixi as a place to lock up the reigning Emperor in a high tower, was a taste of Famous Chinese Tourist Spot on a Weekend During the School Holidays. There were thousands and thousands and thousands of people there. I noted, as I have been observing, how very dressed up many of the women were: silk dresses and high heels are not uncommon, even on a family outing to a national monument. (If you haven’t seen my pictures because I haven’t sent you a Kodak Gallery invitation, please e-mail me at chow6569@gmail.com and I will do so! Many of the pictures speak for themselves!)
After our visit to the SP, Ying drove Kacie and me to have supper with Tammy, one of our students who had gone on the tour with us. Tammy called her boyfriend Patrick to join us at T.G.I.Friday’s--my first time at one of those restaurants. (We had said we wanted American food...) The meal doesn’t need talking about--and I don’t need to eat at a chain restaurant ever again. But the dinner conversation was amazing.
Tammy is reluctant to speak English, thinking she doesn’t do it well (which she does), but Patrick has all the assurance of a Beijing international attorney and investment banker--which is what he is. He was articulate, funny, and occasionally outrageously outspoken (“The people of China are good. The government of China is shit” and “People from Fujian Province are stupid and horrible. No country in the world wants to give them visas. We do not want them visiting Beijing.”)
We were on the Fifth Avenue cum Wall Street of Beijing--surrounded by high rises whose upper floors hold international corporate headquarters, banks, and law offices. The ground floors seemed to be taken up with Prada, Gucci, and Versace stores. They told us that three years ago this area was all hutongs--old neighborhoods--which had been razed to bring Beijing into the 21st Century. Amazing transformation, and quite impressive. Not the China I’ve seen before, nor the China were most people live...but where Tammy and Patrick do have an apartment...
Patrick drove us back to our apartment, which, it turns out, is only a few miles from theirs. As he was driving and turning and switching lanes, Patrick was talking on the phone with a friend, asking for directions ust as Tammy was doing the same in the back seat (as Elder Auntie in most gatherings, I am often given the front seat of a car or the first choice of seats elsewhere...). Ying earlier that day and Patrick that night told us that we should be happy to be in Beijing, for drivers here are better than anywhere else in the country. Oh dear, oh dear. Have I mentioned that drivers don’t stay in lanes? Except on divided highways, it’s possible at any moment that traffic will come at you in your lane from the other direction, or swerve in front of you in case they want to turn, or stop. Beijing drivers are certainly alert, for we’ve seen only a few accidents...
Oh-oh. Look how many pages I’ve written and I haven’t even got to the Great Wall of China. Well, let me tell you, the government has realized what a gold mine it has in the Great Wall. The Badaling site, where I visited ten years ago and actually earned my status (“In order to be a great man [hero], one must climb the Great Wall,” Mao Zedong), is now a huge, overcrowded, jazzed up tourist spot. Yes, the Great Wall is still there--but with the addition of a cable car (which I rode up in), picnic tables, toilets, and even a “Badaling Safari” zoo nearby (where, I hear, a teenager trying to avoid paying admission was eaten by the tiger whose cage he unwisely jumped over the fence and into...).
Today’s (Monday’s) classes were great. In the Professors class, we talked about Families and Religion in America. Do I have more favorite topics? We talked about all sorts and conditions of families--from intact traditional nuclear to two moms/donor sperm. They said there were gay couples in China living openly (although illegally) and many wondered why so many Americans want to adopt Chinese baby girls (although they all agreed that the children are often from orphanages and get a good life in the U.S.A.)
Our discussion about religion was fabulous, but too short. They wanted to know who God is (I taught them the word “ineffable”) and they wondered if scientists believe in God (I told them about Uncle John McLucas), and if we thought every word of the Bible is true. I had already made a chart on a powerpoint, listing different branches of Christianity, so I could point to the differences between Evangelical Protestants and Mainline Protestants. I talked about All Saints’, Peterborough, and they gave up part of their lunchtime to go to the ASP website and see some pictures!
The kids started their speeches on how to play games today: eight of the kids talked and seven will do so tomorrow. Many of the games are similar: Leon explained “16 Questions” (a.k.a. 20 Questions) and Zhi Jian guessed “Princess Diana” in just 9. Ran did a magic trick with playing cards and told how to play a game where you drop sticks and pick them up one-by-one! Selena explained “Flying Bag,” where you toss little sandbags (beanbags?) at kids to make them dead, and Ashley taught us all a finger-dancing drinking game. Chloe had a powerpoint to explain UNO, Duo explained the basic moves of Chinese chess (so similar to our chess..but different...no queen, only the Emperor is important.) We then practiced using the telephone and phone etiquette, and their assignment is to call me before midnight. So far, I’ve got one call, including an invitation to go shopping in Beijing with Jamie, who has lived here for 21 years!
During the last 45 minutes of class, we started on the U.S. Government. I asked what they already knew, and heard the words White House, Homeland Security, FBI, CIA, 55 states, voting, NASA, Pentagon, and, from Jinglin, an explanation of the three branches of government...
Tomorrow we’ll talk about the Constitution and Bill of Rights (is it September in the USA in an 8th Grade History class?), and begin on holidays and festivals...
Thanks for reading.
Sad to say, the party must have become too wild after I fell asleep: when I woke up this morning, one of the fat, beautiful, healthy ones had jumped for joy a little too high, and was on the floor, still golden and bright, but dried and dead. Darn.
They are all flapping happy to see me, though, and just gathered around for some snacks and conversation. Funny how one, missing two kitties, can start thinking fish are cute.
Another funny thing that I keep forgetting to tell you is that last week when Kongli had to drive Kacie to the police station to get her resident permit, he called Duo to ask for directions. Duo told Kongli to ask ME since I’d been there twice already. What a riot. After Kongli got us in the near vicinity, I was able to point down a street, where Kacie saw a sign that said, “P-O-L-I-C-E,” and we were there!
Saturday morning I dedicated my life to getting my nails done. When I first arrived, Ying and I had had manicures at a fancy mall, and she had told me that it’s so inexpensive around here, people often get them at least once or even twice a week. I figured bright red polish would be no problem. After a week, though, we never had made it back to any nail salon and so I started to try to find nail polish remover. Try asking for that in pantomime to sales clerks who get manicures twice a week. Couldn’t find any, anywhere. Friday at Silk Market, Kacie and I were all set to have mani/pedi treats, but decided it was too expensive there (tourist trap?) and our neighborhood nail salon would be better. Trouble was, we couldn’t find one. So we gave up.
Which brings us to Saturday morning and my determination to get my nails done in our neighborhood. I walked up one side of Maliandao East and then up Maliandao South and then back. I saw lots of things--a man burning trash on a sidewalk, a mother holding a baby so he could pee on the sidewalk, thousands of bikes parked at the local supermarket, a huge argument between two drivers (with the one who had gotten out his car reaching in and grabbing the other guy’s shirt and almost pulling hi through the window until a policeman sauntered over, told him to quit it, and he got back into this car and drove off)--but no nail salon. I knew I was running out of time: we were heading for the Summer Palace at 12:30 and it was already 11. In despair, I walked home on the shady side of the street, and what did I see but a woman getting her nails done in the front window of a shoe store! PERFECT!
I went in and made some new friends. Susan (Su San), a travel agent, was visiting from the North and spoke perfect English. The owner of the shop was a model-beautiful tall, thin, graceful woman wearing a gorgeous red dress and high sandals who looked like she stepped off the cover of Vogue. I sat and they chatted and we chatted and finally it was my turn. I hope you all have admired my sparkly pinkly purple nails (Lila suggested the color I should get). Su San gave me her phone number and told me to call if I ever need help with anything. I thanked her, and told the owner of the shop that I would be back--soon and often.
The high points of our visit to the Summer Palace, the huge residence built mostly by the wicked Dowager Empress Cixi as a place to lock up the reigning Emperor in a high tower, was a taste of Famous Chinese Tourist Spot on a Weekend During the School Holidays. There were thousands and thousands and thousands of people there. I noted, as I have been observing, how very dressed up many of the women were: silk dresses and high heels are not uncommon, even on a family outing to a national monument. (If you haven’t seen my pictures because I haven’t sent you a Kodak Gallery invitation, please e-mail me at chow6569@gmail.com and I will do so! Many of the pictures speak for themselves!)
After our visit to the SP, Ying drove Kacie and me to have supper with Tammy, one of our students who had gone on the tour with us. Tammy called her boyfriend Patrick to join us at T.G.I.Friday’s--my first time at one of those restaurants. (We had said we wanted American food...) The meal doesn’t need talking about--and I don’t need to eat at a chain restaurant ever again. But the dinner conversation was amazing.
Tammy is reluctant to speak English, thinking she doesn’t do it well (which she does), but Patrick has all the assurance of a Beijing international attorney and investment banker--which is what he is. He was articulate, funny, and occasionally outrageously outspoken (“The people of China are good. The government of China is shit” and “People from Fujian Province are stupid and horrible. No country in the world wants to give them visas. We do not want them visiting Beijing.”)
We were on the Fifth Avenue cum Wall Street of Beijing--surrounded by high rises whose upper floors hold international corporate headquarters, banks, and law offices. The ground floors seemed to be taken up with Prada, Gucci, and Versace stores. They told us that three years ago this area was all hutongs--old neighborhoods--which had been razed to bring Beijing into the 21st Century. Amazing transformation, and quite impressive. Not the China I’ve seen before, nor the China were most people live...but where Tammy and Patrick do have an apartment...
Patrick drove us back to our apartment, which, it turns out, is only a few miles from theirs. As he was driving and turning and switching lanes, Patrick was talking on the phone with a friend, asking for directions ust as Tammy was doing the same in the back seat (as Elder Auntie in most gatherings, I am often given the front seat of a car or the first choice of seats elsewhere...). Ying earlier that day and Patrick that night told us that we should be happy to be in Beijing, for drivers here are better than anywhere else in the country. Oh dear, oh dear. Have I mentioned that drivers don’t stay in lanes? Except on divided highways, it’s possible at any moment that traffic will come at you in your lane from the other direction, or swerve in front of you in case they want to turn, or stop. Beijing drivers are certainly alert, for we’ve seen only a few accidents...
Oh-oh. Look how many pages I’ve written and I haven’t even got to the Great Wall of China. Well, let me tell you, the government has realized what a gold mine it has in the Great Wall. The Badaling site, where I visited ten years ago and actually earned my status (“In order to be a great man [hero], one must climb the Great Wall,” Mao Zedong), is now a huge, overcrowded, jazzed up tourist spot. Yes, the Great Wall is still there--but with the addition of a cable car (which I rode up in), picnic tables, toilets, and even a “Badaling Safari” zoo nearby (where, I hear, a teenager trying to avoid paying admission was eaten by the tiger whose cage he unwisely jumped over the fence and into...).
Today’s (Monday’s) classes were great. In the Professors class, we talked about Families and Religion in America. Do I have more favorite topics? We talked about all sorts and conditions of families--from intact traditional nuclear to two moms/donor sperm. They said there were gay couples in China living openly (although illegally) and many wondered why so many Americans want to adopt Chinese baby girls (although they all agreed that the children are often from orphanages and get a good life in the U.S.A.)
Our discussion about religion was fabulous, but too short. They wanted to know who God is (I taught them the word “ineffable”) and they wondered if scientists believe in God (I told them about Uncle John McLucas), and if we thought every word of the Bible is true. I had already made a chart on a powerpoint, listing different branches of Christianity, so I could point to the differences between Evangelical Protestants and Mainline Protestants. I talked about All Saints’, Peterborough, and they gave up part of their lunchtime to go to the ASP website and see some pictures!
The kids started their speeches on how to play games today: eight of the kids talked and seven will do so tomorrow. Many of the games are similar: Leon explained “16 Questions” (a.k.a. 20 Questions) and Zhi Jian guessed “Princess Diana” in just 9. Ran did a magic trick with playing cards and told how to play a game where you drop sticks and pick them up one-by-one! Selena explained “Flying Bag,” where you toss little sandbags (beanbags?) at kids to make them dead, and Ashley taught us all a finger-dancing drinking game. Chloe had a powerpoint to explain UNO, Duo explained the basic moves of Chinese chess (so similar to our chess..but different...no queen, only the Emperor is important.) We then practiced using the telephone and phone etiquette, and their assignment is to call me before midnight. So far, I’ve got one call, including an invitation to go shopping in Beijing with Jamie, who has lived here for 21 years!
During the last 45 minutes of class, we started on the U.S. Government. I asked what they already knew, and heard the words White House, Homeland Security, FBI, CIA, 55 states, voting, NASA, Pentagon, and, from Jinglin, an explanation of the three branches of government...
Tomorrow we’ll talk about the Constitution and Bill of Rights (is it September in the USA in an 8th Grade History class?), and begin on holidays and festivals...
Thanks for reading.
Saturday, July 25, 2009
7/22 Oops--Going Back a Couple of Days
[Here's a post from Mum from earlier this week--shopping on her own, Kacie's arrival, first day of school, and another foot massage. Sorry it got lost in the shuffle! --Jen]
July 22
If you're following my life in Beijing on Kodak Gallery, then you already know a lot of what I'm writing about today. It is fun, though, to think of the words to describe the days. Monday was my last vacation day: Ying and Duo were busy all day, doing the final things at the Business College to get ready for the beginning of classes on Tuesday. Kongli would arrive from the States at 2:30, and Kacie from Australia at 9:30 PM! So I had the day to myself, which was actually lots of fun.
After feeding the koi (don't forget, the koi-the Chinese call them carp-are my pets here. I still really miss my kitties!) My fish expert, Sue Morash, told me that koi only have to be fed every other day-pigs they could be, she said. Well, you tell that to my koi! If I don't give them at least a snack, then they splash and jump and won't leave me alone. So a sprinkle a day. They are really friendly. My friend Emma told me that koi will let you pet them. That is not going to happen in this life. I have too much cat in me to think seriously that a fish is something I'd like to hug or snuggle with.
Okay, I had a list of items I needed to buy, so I got my bag and sunglasses and ventured forth. This time I turned in the right direction, which is left, and headed for big Maliandao St. (I actually live on Tea Street East.) It was walking along that I saw the woman ahead of me swinging a plastic bag full of roundish, brownish things, which I assumed were peaches. When I zoomed in with my camera, I discovered-WHAT! She was carrying about two dozen eggs piled up in that bag. I thought about our cardboard 12-packs and wondered if that much packaging is really necessary.
My attention was almost immediately diverted, though, because a cyclist went by (a common occurrence), but this one made me stop and gape. She was a gray-haired woman and riding on the back was a little guy, maybe 10 months old-he could sit up by himself. No helmets. Oooh. I didn't say anything, of course, and didn't even have time to get my camera out. It worried me, though. I haven't seen anyone wear a helmet in Beijing, although I do see that people sitting in the front of cars do usually hook up their seatbelts.
So I on my way to Carrefour's, huge department store that dominates the block, I passed by some specialty shops. One was an umbrella store, and I was able to find a very sparkly purple one for a certain three-year old. Inside the big store, found what I've been looking for-washcloths (1Y -14¢--each), fountain pens (a calligraphy set for 9Y), numerous small gift items. I desperately wanted to buy a copy of Harry Potter 6 in Chinese, but wondered what I would do with it when I get home. (If any of you reading this wants a copy, let me know!)
After that, I walked to Tea City, which is on the corner of Maliandao and Maliandao West. Inside this huge building there must be 100 small tea shops (hundreds and hundreds more line the avenue.) I went inside, determined to have the first (of many) “tea parties” that I will enjoy in the coming weeks. Of course as soon as I walked in, the beautiful young women standing outside the shops smiled and said, “Ni Hao, Hello, would you like to try some tea?” in English or Mandarin. After saying, “No, thank you” in English and Mandarin a dozen times, I finally (arbitrarily) went into one shop. There was a beautiful hostess seated at the teak tea table and her two assistants. They asked what kinds of tea I like, and all I knew to say was “Oolong, green, and (one I just learned) pu-er (a local tea that Duo had told me about.)
My hostess made me tea-three separate times-using, for the oolong, a traditional small clay pot and a bamboo scoop to put the leaves into it. She poured the hot water onto the leaves and let them steep for about half a minute, swishing the pot around. She poured that potful out onto the bamboo mat (I assume there was a catch basin underneath) after rinsing the strainer with the first brew. Then she brewed another pot for about a minute, and she poured that one onto the clay pot itself and the little clay animal figurines lined up at the front of the tea desk. Then she brewed the third pot, which is the one she served me. Goodness, the tea was good: delicate and flavorful. As soon as I had taken a couple of sips, she refilled my tiny cup--two or three tablespoonsful at the most.
The ceremonies for the green tea and the pu’er (Duo had told me it is very popular here) were similar, except that the tea was brewed with water not-yet boiling and steeped in a heavy glass, not a clay pot. The green was fresh-tasting, like grass at Jamba Juice, and the pu-er was smokey, like Early Grey. I bought some of each, and went on down the aisle to another shop. I wasn’t going to buy any more tea, but the woman (who spoke not one word not one word of English!) just happened to be scooping up some chrysanthemums. I loved chrysanthemum tea when I was here the last two times, so I had to go in. This woman, who worked the shop alone, was not nearly as elaborate as the other in preparing the tea (again, in a thick-sided glass), but the tea was delicious. I bought some of that, too, and then fled out the door. It would not do to spend my entire gift budget on tea the first day of tea parties.
The rest of the day I stayed home--it was 96° out and I didn’t want to walk anywhere else--and knit on Nico’s sweater and watched episodes of Season 1 ER (thanks, Cindy.) Kongli and Ying called and said that Kacie’s flight was delayed, so they wouldn’t be back to the apartment until near 11. I said I’d wait up--why not?
At a little after 11 P, Kongli called me from the airport--Kacie hadn’t been on the plane--or at last she hadn’t shown up at the gate! He wondered is she had emailed me, and I said she hadn’t. We were all quite worried. But 15 minutes later, they called again--Kacie had gone through a different gate, and had been waiting for them there. (Poor Kacie’s version of the story is that she had NO idea what to do--she had no one’s Beijing phone number!) Kacie seemed enthusiastic, pleasant, and tired. The next would be our first day of teaching.
The first day was not easy. Kacie and I each teach the two groups--professors from Beijing Business College and students ranges in age from 12 to 16. Most of the professors are actually very good in English--because BCBUU has a relationship with colleges in the US, many have spent a semester in either Scotland or England already. Many of the lessons we had planned (using the Side by Side books--basic ESL--that Kongli had given us) are too elementary. Students in both classes were reluctant to talk--they were nervous & they aren’t used to speaking in class. Both Kacie and I wondered what we were going to do, and she (with five years teaching experience) and me with 38 wondered if we had ever taught before. I have to admit that I have had other first days like this--not fun.
But the evening’s activities made up for the insecurity of the first day of school. We were guests of Ying’s father at the Quanjude Roast Duck restaurant at an elegant hotel--we had out own private dining room with two servers. The meal was exquisite--12 courses before the duck. Chinese wine for those who drank it and lots of thick mango-like juice for those of us who didn’t. Kacie and I were presented with certificates for the ducks we ate (two were served to the eight of us)--mine is the 20,267th duck served at this restaurant since it opened in 1864. Hmm. Ying’s father had invited a couple of his business friends, and they gave many toasts. Kacie, when toasted, quaffed her aperitif glass on wine, knocking it back like a shot. She was applauded and cheered by all. Mr. Lui and his friend both gave me many complements--I don’t look old enough to have taught school for 38 years, I have an elegant style and my dress is beautiful (thanks, Memsy, for the aqua dress & jewelry), and I have a good smile. I loved it!
When we got back to Maliandao East and were walking to our apartment, we went by groups of people playing hacky-sack with badminton shuttlecocks. They gestured for us to join in. I didn’t because I never have been able to hacky, but Kacie jumped right in, kicking the birdie around. Again, she was applauded by all. She is quite a vivacious young woman, lots of fun to be with!
Sad to say, in the middle of the night, I was struck with what we will call Empress Cixi’s Revenge. Thanks to Cipro and Imodium, I think I nipped it before it go too bad. Yesterday, though, was not an easy day. Teaching went VERY well--the students talked, they were well-prepared and lively. Whew--both Kacie and I remembered that we do know how to teach! I didn’t eat anything, though I did drink a Pepsi and lots of water.
Afterwards, Kacie and I had foot massages (this will happen often) at the local beauty salon--again, amazing and wonderful. I came back and went to bed. I slept for 12 hours! Am now getting ready to teach for the third day. Yikes!
More another day. Thanks for reading.
July 22
If you're following my life in Beijing on Kodak Gallery, then you already know a lot of what I'm writing about today. It is fun, though, to think of the words to describe the days. Monday was my last vacation day: Ying and Duo were busy all day, doing the final things at the Business College to get ready for the beginning of classes on Tuesday. Kongli would arrive from the States at 2:30, and Kacie from Australia at 9:30 PM! So I had the day to myself, which was actually lots of fun.
After feeding the koi (don't forget, the koi-the Chinese call them carp-are my pets here. I still really miss my kitties!) My fish expert, Sue Morash, told me that koi only have to be fed every other day-pigs they could be, she said. Well, you tell that to my koi! If I don't give them at least a snack, then they splash and jump and won't leave me alone. So a sprinkle a day. They are really friendly. My friend Emma told me that koi will let you pet them. That is not going to happen in this life. I have too much cat in me to think seriously that a fish is something I'd like to hug or snuggle with.
Okay, I had a list of items I needed to buy, so I got my bag and sunglasses and ventured forth. This time I turned in the right direction, which is left, and headed for big Maliandao St. (I actually live on Tea Street East.) It was walking along that I saw the woman ahead of me swinging a plastic bag full of roundish, brownish things, which I assumed were peaches. When I zoomed in with my camera, I discovered-WHAT! She was carrying about two dozen eggs piled up in that bag. I thought about our cardboard 12-packs and wondered if that much packaging is really necessary.
My attention was almost immediately diverted, though, because a cyclist went by (a common occurrence), but this one made me stop and gape. She was a gray-haired woman and riding on the back was a little guy, maybe 10 months old-he could sit up by himself. No helmets. Oooh. I didn't say anything, of course, and didn't even have time to get my camera out. It worried me, though. I haven't seen anyone wear a helmet in Beijing, although I do see that people sitting in the front of cars do usually hook up their seatbelts.
So I on my way to Carrefour's, huge department store that dominates the block, I passed by some specialty shops. One was an umbrella store, and I was able to find a very sparkly purple one for a certain three-year old. Inside the big store, found what I've been looking for-washcloths (1Y -14¢--each), fountain pens (a calligraphy set for 9Y), numerous small gift items. I desperately wanted to buy a copy of Harry Potter 6 in Chinese, but wondered what I would do with it when I get home. (If any of you reading this wants a copy, let me know!)
After that, I walked to Tea City, which is on the corner of Maliandao and Maliandao West. Inside this huge building there must be 100 small tea shops (hundreds and hundreds more line the avenue.) I went inside, determined to have the first (of many) “tea parties” that I will enjoy in the coming weeks. Of course as soon as I walked in, the beautiful young women standing outside the shops smiled and said, “Ni Hao, Hello, would you like to try some tea?” in English or Mandarin. After saying, “No, thank you” in English and Mandarin a dozen times, I finally (arbitrarily) went into one shop. There was a beautiful hostess seated at the teak tea table and her two assistants. They asked what kinds of tea I like, and all I knew to say was “Oolong, green, and (one I just learned) pu-er (a local tea that Duo had told me about.)
My hostess made me tea-three separate times-using, for the oolong, a traditional small clay pot and a bamboo scoop to put the leaves into it. She poured the hot water onto the leaves and let them steep for about half a minute, swishing the pot around. She poured that potful out onto the bamboo mat (I assume there was a catch basin underneath) after rinsing the strainer with the first brew. Then she brewed another pot for about a minute, and she poured that one onto the clay pot itself and the little clay animal figurines lined up at the front of the tea desk. Then she brewed the third pot, which is the one she served me. Goodness, the tea was good: delicate and flavorful. As soon as I had taken a couple of sips, she refilled my tiny cup--two or three tablespoonsful at the most.
The ceremonies for the green tea and the pu’er (Duo had told me it is very popular here) were similar, except that the tea was brewed with water not-yet boiling and steeped in a heavy glass, not a clay pot. The green was fresh-tasting, like grass at Jamba Juice, and the pu-er was smokey, like Early Grey. I bought some of each, and went on down the aisle to another shop. I wasn’t going to buy any more tea, but the woman (who spoke not one word not one word of English!) just happened to be scooping up some chrysanthemums. I loved chrysanthemum tea when I was here the last two times, so I had to go in. This woman, who worked the shop alone, was not nearly as elaborate as the other in preparing the tea (again, in a thick-sided glass), but the tea was delicious. I bought some of that, too, and then fled out the door. It would not do to spend my entire gift budget on tea the first day of tea parties.
The rest of the day I stayed home--it was 96° out and I didn’t want to walk anywhere else--and knit on Nico’s sweater and watched episodes of Season 1 ER (thanks, Cindy.) Kongli and Ying called and said that Kacie’s flight was delayed, so they wouldn’t be back to the apartment until near 11. I said I’d wait up--why not?
At a little after 11 P, Kongli called me from the airport--Kacie hadn’t been on the plane--or at last she hadn’t shown up at the gate! He wondered is she had emailed me, and I said she hadn’t. We were all quite worried. But 15 minutes later, they called again--Kacie had gone through a different gate, and had been waiting for them there. (Poor Kacie’s version of the story is that she had NO idea what to do--she had no one’s Beijing phone number!) Kacie seemed enthusiastic, pleasant, and tired. The next would be our first day of teaching.
The first day was not easy. Kacie and I each teach the two groups--professors from Beijing Business College and students ranges in age from 12 to 16. Most of the professors are actually very good in English--because BCBUU has a relationship with colleges in the US, many have spent a semester in either Scotland or England already. Many of the lessons we had planned (using the Side by Side books--basic ESL--that Kongli had given us) are too elementary. Students in both classes were reluctant to talk--they were nervous & they aren’t used to speaking in class. Both Kacie and I wondered what we were going to do, and she (with five years teaching experience) and me with 38 wondered if we had ever taught before. I have to admit that I have had other first days like this--not fun.
But the evening’s activities made up for the insecurity of the first day of school. We were guests of Ying’s father at the Quanjude Roast Duck restaurant at an elegant hotel--we had out own private dining room with two servers. The meal was exquisite--12 courses before the duck. Chinese wine for those who drank it and lots of thick mango-like juice for those of us who didn’t. Kacie and I were presented with certificates for the ducks we ate (two were served to the eight of us)--mine is the 20,267th duck served at this restaurant since it opened in 1864. Hmm. Ying’s father had invited a couple of his business friends, and they gave many toasts. Kacie, when toasted, quaffed her aperitif glass on wine, knocking it back like a shot. She was applauded and cheered by all. Mr. Lui and his friend both gave me many complements--I don’t look old enough to have taught school for 38 years, I have an elegant style and my dress is beautiful (thanks, Memsy, for the aqua dress & jewelry), and I have a good smile. I loved it!
When we got back to Maliandao East and were walking to our apartment, we went by groups of people playing hacky-sack with badminton shuttlecocks. They gestured for us to join in. I didn’t because I never have been able to hacky, but Kacie jumped right in, kicking the birdie around. Again, she was applauded by all. She is quite a vivacious young woman, lots of fun to be with!
Sad to say, in the middle of the night, I was struck with what we will call Empress Cixi’s Revenge. Thanks to Cipro and Imodium, I think I nipped it before it go too bad. Yesterday, though, was not an easy day. Teaching went VERY well--the students talked, they were well-prepared and lively. Whew--both Kacie and I remembered that we do know how to teach! I didn’t eat anything, though I did drink a Pepsi and lots of water.
Afterwards, Kacie and I had foot massages (this will happen often) at the local beauty salon--again, amazing and wonderful. I came back and went to bed. I slept for 12 hours! Am now getting ready to teach for the third day. Yikes!
More another day. Thanks for reading.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Blue Sky
July 24, 2009
8:08 PM
Today we saw blue sky as we headed out to the street where Duo picks us up. WOW! It was the first time since being here that I've seen the clear sky and the puffy individual clouds (which had merged and changed the sky to overcast by the time we got to BCBUU, but still, we had a moment!) When we got to the school, we couldn’t park in our usual spot in front--there were dozens of cars already there and hundreds of people milling about. Must be registration day for new students, we figured. The building we’re really supposed to teach in was open (it’s been being cleaned all week) so we were able to walk through and see the big sign that advertises our course. Funny to see one’s name & picture thus displayed!
The professors’ class was great. Two students brought in lengthy, well-edited powerpoints about themselves. These stories are getting more personal and detailed. Logan told us about coming from a family of six children, from a small town (population only about 30,000) in the South of China. He showed pictures of his family, the town, and the landscape--the major crop is navel oranges. (He was one of 20 in his elementary school class of 600 who went on to middle school, and one of four from his middle school class who went on to University.)
Susan’s powerpoint showed many highlights of her life--lots about her husband & baby (her son, who is now seven), the day she received her PhD, the day last winter when her son thanked her & his father publically during a school assembly for all they do for him. She showed pictures of her little motor bike, her BMW, which gets her to work in 15 minutes, the model of a Dragon Ship she and her son built (97 pieces)!, and her parents who have always been so wonderful. She said at the end that when she had started this class, she had intended just to listen and to say nothing, but had been moved by others’ presentations.
Then I did my powerpoint on American Sports and Pastimes. Lucky for me, Mark Buehrle picthed a perfect game yesterday, so in discussing America’s National Sport, I could sing someone’s praises (since Our Boys have been letting us down. The Red Sox slide should stop, though--I did wear my RS earrings today.) By the time I had finished, we only had time for me to show my computer Scrabble (four people clustered around) and one woman brought out her deck of 108 cards to play poker, but no one joined in that.
In the students’ class, no one had brought in any games and the kids weren’t talking much today. Ah well. I had them pair up and practice giving “How to” speeches in English by explaining to each other how to use chopsticks. (Some of them gave very good explanations, but I have to admit I still can only use the way I invented when I was 12 years old and have been using ever since.) Then I whisked through my powerpoint and we played Hangman (they loved it and were VERY GOOD, guessing words after having only 3 letters placed on the llines) for a few rounds. We ended the class by playing The Name Game, which was as popular with them as it always was with my 8th graders or at family parties. On Monday each student is supposed to present a speech in English on a game, hobby, or sport.
After school, Kacie and I went to the Silk Market (where I had been before) and we each made a few purchases. She LOVED it because she likes to bargain and haggle. In the taxi on the way back to our apartment, she told me more about her 100 days traveling around the world with Semester at Sea. 10 Ports of Call, each for 5 days and 50 days of classes while cruising to the next port. Amazing adventures. She’s been to 17 other countries, 27 in all. Her enthusiasm and joie de vivre is pleasant.
Today is a day to celebrate: two babies born into our family yesterday. Cousin Russell’s son Jonathan and his wife Heather welcomed Mary Jordan and Cousin Pauline’s son Adrien and his wife Jess welcomed Victoria Ann. Aren’t we so lucky?
More another day--thanks for reading.
8:08 PM
Today we saw blue sky as we headed out to the street where Duo picks us up. WOW! It was the first time since being here that I've seen the clear sky and the puffy individual clouds (which had merged and changed the sky to overcast by the time we got to BCBUU, but still, we had a moment!) When we got to the school, we couldn’t park in our usual spot in front--there were dozens of cars already there and hundreds of people milling about. Must be registration day for new students, we figured. The building we’re really supposed to teach in was open (it’s been being cleaned all week) so we were able to walk through and see the big sign that advertises our course. Funny to see one’s name & picture thus displayed!
The professors’ class was great. Two students brought in lengthy, well-edited powerpoints about themselves. These stories are getting more personal and detailed. Logan told us about coming from a family of six children, from a small town (population only about 30,000) in the South of China. He showed pictures of his family, the town, and the landscape--the major crop is navel oranges. (He was one of 20 in his elementary school class of 600 who went on to middle school, and one of four from his middle school class who went on to University.)
Susan’s powerpoint showed many highlights of her life--lots about her husband & baby (her son, who is now seven), the day she received her PhD, the day last winter when her son thanked her & his father publically during a school assembly for all they do for him. She showed pictures of her little motor bike, her BMW, which gets her to work in 15 minutes, the model of a Dragon Ship she and her son built (97 pieces)!, and her parents who have always been so wonderful. She said at the end that when she had started this class, she had intended just to listen and to say nothing, but had been moved by others’ presentations.
Then I did my powerpoint on American Sports and Pastimes. Lucky for me, Mark Buehrle picthed a perfect game yesterday, so in discussing America’s National Sport, I could sing someone’s praises (since Our Boys have been letting us down. The Red Sox slide should stop, though--I did wear my RS earrings today.) By the time I had finished, we only had time for me to show my computer Scrabble (four people clustered around) and one woman brought out her deck of 108 cards to play poker, but no one joined in that.
In the students’ class, no one had brought in any games and the kids weren’t talking much today. Ah well. I had them pair up and practice giving “How to” speeches in English by explaining to each other how to use chopsticks. (Some of them gave very good explanations, but I have to admit I still can only use the way I invented when I was 12 years old and have been using ever since.) Then I whisked through my powerpoint and we played Hangman (they loved it and were VERY GOOD, guessing words after having only 3 letters placed on the llines) for a few rounds. We ended the class by playing The Name Game, which was as popular with them as it always was with my 8th graders or at family parties. On Monday each student is supposed to present a speech in English on a game, hobby, or sport.
After school, Kacie and I went to the Silk Market (where I had been before) and we each made a few purchases. She LOVED it because she likes to bargain and haggle. In the taxi on the way back to our apartment, she told me more about her 100 days traveling around the world with Semester at Sea. 10 Ports of Call, each for 5 days and 50 days of classes while cruising to the next port. Amazing adventures. She’s been to 17 other countries, 27 in all. Her enthusiasm and joie de vivre is pleasant.
Today is a day to celebrate: two babies born into our family yesterday. Cousin Russell’s son Jonathan and his wife Heather welcomed Mary Jordan and Cousin Pauline’s son Adrien and his wife Jess welcomed Victoria Ann. Aren’t we so lucky?
More another day--thanks for reading.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Tuesday, July 23, 2009
July 23, 2009
My classes today were really good. I was able to log on to the NY Times website and during the first class (professors), we watched a little but of Obama's Rose Garden discussion about health care (not the long speech last night), which sparked a great conversation comparing American and Chinese health care systems. I thought China had universal coverage, but that’s not true. Health care is job related, and there is very little health care in the villages. (Of course, this is one of the reasons that the SABEH, the non-profit of which I’m a board member exists--to help health care in our village of Pang Liu.)From that, we started talking about many other comparisons between our countries. Here’s a chart we talked about:
Five largest cities, US & China
#1--NYC--8,274,527 Shanghai--17,000,000
#2--LA--3,834,340 Beijing--13,200,000
#3--Chicago--2,836,658 Guanzhou--12,000,000
#4--Houston--2,208,180 Shenzen--8,815,000
#5--Philadelphia--1,449,634 Tianjin--8,200,000
Amazing, eh? Of course, China has 4x the population: 1.3 billion to .3 billion
Then we talked about types of dwellings. Most people in China live in apartments, which they sometimes purchase. Ownership lasts for 70 years in China, and they were surprised to learn that Americans own the property they buy until they sell it, can’t pay the taxes any more, or die and will it to someone else.
The class with younger students was fun, too. Students are practicing sentences which include information on “Where are you?” and “What are you doing?” and, among other things, they’re drawing cartoons & playing variations of Charades and Pictionary. I asked them to bring in pictures of where they live or have traveled and be able to explain them to us. These kids are amazing: they’re bringing in powerpoint presentations that make anything I do look like baby work (which is basically what it is.) They really really really work hard!
True to my long-standing tradition, tomorrow is Scrabble Day in my classes. Because I only have my computer for Scrabble, though, I’m also letting them bring in their favorite games, which they have to teach me (and play with whomever.) I hear we’re going to be playing mahjong and poker (yes, five card stud), among other things. Should be fun.
After class, Duo and two of his high school friends from Lanzhou who are also in the class, Leon and Wanny, Kacie, & I went to the Olympic Park. FABULOUS! The architecture of the Bird’s Nest is amazing. I had thought of it as sort of wispy, which of course it is not: the steel structure is massive. The nicest thing about it all, though, was how very many people were there--the park is huge and thousands of Chinese were roaming around, looking, taking photos, laughing. Kacie had us jump when we were having our pictures taken--wonderful shots!~ She says she does this in front of every famous monument she ever visits. On my pictures I have a great shot of Kacie and Duo; when Leon sends me his pictures, there will be one of me!
After a quick shopping trip, we got home fairly early. Kacie and I are busy uploading pictures, typing blogs, and planning for tomorrow (let’s see, a straight beats four of a kind...)
Thanks for reading--Chris
My classes today were really good. I was able to log on to the NY Times website and during the first class (professors), we watched a little but of Obama's Rose Garden discussion about health care (not the long speech last night), which sparked a great conversation comparing American and Chinese health care systems. I thought China had universal coverage, but that’s not true. Health care is job related, and there is very little health care in the villages. (Of course, this is one of the reasons that the SABEH, the non-profit of which I’m a board member exists--to help health care in our village of Pang Liu.)From that, we started talking about many other comparisons between our countries. Here’s a chart we talked about:
Five largest cities, US & China
#1--NYC--8,274,527 Shanghai--17,000,000
#2--LA--3,834,340 Beijing--13,200,000
#3--Chicago--2,836,658 Guanzhou--12,000,000
#4--Houston--2,208,180 Shenzen--8,815,000
#5--Philadelphia--1,449,634 Tianjin--8,200,000
Amazing, eh? Of course, China has 4x the population: 1.3 billion to .3 billion
Then we talked about types of dwellings. Most people in China live in apartments, which they sometimes purchase. Ownership lasts for 70 years in China, and they were surprised to learn that Americans own the property they buy until they sell it, can’t pay the taxes any more, or die and will it to someone else.
The class with younger students was fun, too. Students are practicing sentences which include information on “Where are you?” and “What are you doing?” and, among other things, they’re drawing cartoons & playing variations of Charades and Pictionary. I asked them to bring in pictures of where they live or have traveled and be able to explain them to us. These kids are amazing: they’re bringing in powerpoint presentations that make anything I do look like baby work (which is basically what it is.) They really really really work hard!
True to my long-standing tradition, tomorrow is Scrabble Day in my classes. Because I only have my computer for Scrabble, though, I’m also letting them bring in their favorite games, which they have to teach me (and play with whomever.) I hear we’re going to be playing mahjong and poker (yes, five card stud), among other things. Should be fun.
After class, Duo and two of his high school friends from Lanzhou who are also in the class, Leon and Wanny, Kacie, & I went to the Olympic Park. FABULOUS! The architecture of the Bird’s Nest is amazing. I had thought of it as sort of wispy, which of course it is not: the steel structure is massive. The nicest thing about it all, though, was how very many people were there--the park is huge and thousands of Chinese were roaming around, looking, taking photos, laughing. Kacie had us jump when we were having our pictures taken--wonderful shots!~ She says she does this in front of every famous monument she ever visits. On my pictures I have a great shot of Kacie and Duo; when Leon sends me his pictures, there will be one of me!
After a quick shopping trip, we got home fairly early. Kacie and I are busy uploading pictures, typing blogs, and planning for tomorrow (let’s see, a straight beats four of a kind...)
Thanks for reading--Chris
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Most Incredible Day! Monday, July 20, 2009
[Again, Kathryn and I are posting these messages from our mom as she sends them to us through e-mail because she can't get access to Facebook or her blog. You can write back to her directly, though, at chow6569@gmail.com.]
Yesterday was a most incredible day! As we had planned, Ying and Duo picked me up to drive me to the Protestant church that Amelia had discovered for me to go to: Beijing Chongwenmen Christian Church, which had originally been built by Methodists in the late 1800’s (I wonder if my father’s great-aunt Elizabeth, who was a Methodist missionary to China, ever went there?) In order to get there, we had to drive down a crazily narrow street (and the only one I’ve seen so far that actually had a one-way arrow at the adit) through a hutong. Ying and I got out of the car and walked down the even-narrower street (no cars could get through) to the church. We started to see hundreds and hundreds of people coming towards us, and Ying said, “I had no idea so many people in Beijing went to church!” She had never been before, and was looking forward to seeing what a service would be like.
As we went through the courtyard entrance, a green-polo-shirted woman flashed an infrared thermometer at my forehead and another said something to Ying, who replied, of course in Chinese. We struggled on towards the alcove where English hymnals, Bibles, and orders of service were available. Another green lady spoke to Ying, who touched my arm and said, “I have to leave. I am not dressed properly.” “WHAT?” I exclaimed. “My shoes,” she said, pointed to her spangled flip-flops. I sputtered, “Tell them it’s your first time!” and she said, “No, I’d better go, call me when you are done.” My curiosity, I admit, outweighed my moral outrage at the exclusion, and I agreed to call her later and went on in. I figured out what kind of Protestant service this would be when I saw the two huge projection screens and the red neon cross, but I was still eager to participate in a service in China. The choir, with one particularly strong soprano, was practicing the hymn “Softly and Tenderly” from the dual-language hymnbook. The microphones were on, and the unseen singers’ voices filled the whole (noisy) sanctuary as about 800 of us gathered (the leaflet explained there were another 1200 seats in the undercroft, where the service could be viewed on closed-circuit TVs.) A piano accompanied the practice, and was the only instrument used throughout the service. I looked around, and noticed the similarities between this late 19th c. church and the one I grew up in, especially lots of dark wood moldings, wainscoting, window frames and sills and the abundance of Roman arches. This one is octagonal, though, and not as cheerful as Pilgrim Church was...
Then practice stopped, there was a rustle and a murmur, and in came in the choir (21 of them + leader) to a largo tempo, one foot plodding after another as if to a dirge and then the two ministers, Liturgist Liu Cuimin (woman) and Preacher Zhang Wezshe. All the while, the cluster of us non-feverish English speakers in the corner had our headphones on and were listening to a quiet-voiced Chinese woman simultaneously translate or freestyle explain what was happening. The service continued on, much like the Congregationalist ones I attended as a kid until right after the Bible readings. The woman minister announced that now was time for baptisms. Onto the enormous screen was projected the word “Baptism” in English (and, I assume the Chinese said the same thing) and there he was, Jesus of the flowing auburn hair, gathering people to him. So the minister asked the baptismees (?) to come forward and I was wondering if there was going to be immersion, but that didn’t happen. On the other hand, 39 young adults came forward and for the next 15 minutes or so, we said familiar prayers and listened as Liu Cuimin said (in Chinese) “I baptize you in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost.” The word I heard the most was “shén shèng”, which I discover means, “Holy.” After the new Christians had received a round of applause and returned to their seats, Liu Cuimin said the church was grateful that there were over 100 people to be baptized at this time, and the rite would be performed over four services.
After the choir’s rendition of some enthusiastic hymn, Pastor Zhang got up to preach on some Matthean passage about wicked generations and gnashing of teeth. I sat through it for about 25 minutes, with the preacher’s voice rising and falling, and his haranguing us about being human and not getting into the Kingdom of Heaven. Made me appreciate Adrian and Sarah even more than I usually do. Finally, frankly, I didn’t give a damn if I made a small scene, and took off my headphones and slipped out into the courtyard, where I breathed deeply and happily some fresh air. The sulfurous fumes of hellfire and scorched my sensibilities.
I called Ying, who said they hadn’t been able to find a parking place, and Duo would come for me in about a half hour. I took the time to walk around a bit. Down the alley from the church towards the Chongwen Subway station, I had to pass by a number of the lame and crippled, some sitting on the ground with their prosthetic legs or feet next to them, one lying on a filthy pallet and looking at me with imploring eyes. I will increase my donation to the Presiding Bishop’s Fund...
It was at the subway station that I saw the young man wearing the shirt of the Evil Empire and asked if I could take his picture. He smiled, said yes, and said carefully, “Yankees my favorite team.” I just sighed and said, “Boston Red Sox,” and wished I were wearing one of my seven R.S. shirts.
Ying and Duo brought me to meet their grandfather’s brother, Liu Laoshi (Teacher Liu), who is a Tai Chi Master. He has agreed to have me as a pupil while I am here. I met Teacher Liu is 80+ and is actually, the President of Yin/Yang Tai Chi in China. I don’t know if I’ve ever been so honored. We spent a little less than an hour together, and by the end I was dripping with sweat--it's not that hot today, but I was concentrating and working so hard. Amazing. Everything he said either Ying or Duo translated. First thing was: walk softly, gently (don't thump.) This after he saw me taking three steps towards him to shake his hand and bow. Then about qi--I need to get it out of my shoulders and into my belly. Then the hands, like gently touching the finest silk or holding a ball between the hands. Be as quiet as a cat waiting for a mouse. Keep the head even. Never step in a straight line, move your feet and hands in circles and be gentle gentle gentle. I am to practice for 30-40 minutes a day and go back in a week. Wow. This was the most important part of an amazing day, but I have the fewest words for it. I made a movie but can’t send it: it’s too long.
Teacher Liu actually lives in Lanzhou and had come in Beijing last month because he was very ill and needed the specialized care found only in hospitals here. He has only been up for about a week. When he did the opening Tai Chi sequence for me, Ying’s mother followed him, her hands up, ready to catch him if he stumbled. He didn’t. His every movement was graceful and beautiful. When he showed me a movement or corrected what I did, he was very gentle and very precise. Ying apologized, saying he was teaching me as a master, and everything had to be perfect. She said, “This is very basic and very important,” and I said, “Yes, it is fundamental, the foundation of everything.” Teacher Liu has always wanted to teach those of Ying and Duo’s generation and they have eschewed his offers. They did it with me yesterday, though, along with their mothers, so we had quite a class going in the elegant courtyard. Many other residents came and sat on the perimeter walls and watched. I was aware of them only vaguely, trying so hard to breathe, step, hold my arms and hands right, get the chi out of my shoulders and into my nelly, keep my front leg at a 45° angle, touch silk, not thump but walk as silently as a cat stalking a mouse. Amazing, amazing. What an opportunity, how lucky I am.
The day ended with a meeting. Four students, with some of their parents, have come from Lanzhou (where both Ying and Kongli’s families are from) to attend our classes. We all met and had dinner together last night at the sumptuous Xinjiang Hotel. We had a 12-course dinner which did not include (but was available) horse intestines and camel paws. Some of the food was so spicy I could only bring it near my lips but not into my mouth, but most of it was, as usual, delicious. The meal was (yin/yang) balanced as to color, texture, & flavor. There seemed to be as much left as we ate, and we all got to bring our favorites home (I just ate my lamb & rice for breakfast.)
I’ve run out of energy and words. Except for one thing. I have promised Ying that when she & Kongli visit me in Peterborough, we at All Saints’ will NOT make her leave if she is wearing sandals. I told her that actually, the only clothing incident I could imagine that might cause a reaction would be if someone showed up nude. Then we would take that person to the Serendipity Shop and let them choose what they wanted.
Much love to you all. Thanks for reading;
Yesterday was a most incredible day! As we had planned, Ying and Duo picked me up to drive me to the Protestant church that Amelia had discovered for me to go to: Beijing Chongwenmen Christian Church, which had originally been built by Methodists in the late 1800’s (I wonder if my father’s great-aunt Elizabeth, who was a Methodist missionary to China, ever went there?) In order to get there, we had to drive down a crazily narrow street (and the only one I’ve seen so far that actually had a one-way arrow at the adit) through a hutong. Ying and I got out of the car and walked down the even-narrower street (no cars could get through) to the church. We started to see hundreds and hundreds of people coming towards us, and Ying said, “I had no idea so many people in Beijing went to church!” She had never been before, and was looking forward to seeing what a service would be like.
As we went through the courtyard entrance, a green-polo-shirted woman flashed an infrared thermometer at my forehead and another said something to Ying, who replied, of course in Chinese. We struggled on towards the alcove where English hymnals, Bibles, and orders of service were available. Another green lady spoke to Ying, who touched my arm and said, “I have to leave. I am not dressed properly.” “WHAT?” I exclaimed. “My shoes,” she said, pointed to her spangled flip-flops. I sputtered, “Tell them it’s your first time!” and she said, “No, I’d better go, call me when you are done.” My curiosity, I admit, outweighed my moral outrage at the exclusion, and I agreed to call her later and went on in. I figured out what kind of Protestant service this would be when I saw the two huge projection screens and the red neon cross, but I was still eager to participate in a service in China. The choir, with one particularly strong soprano, was practicing the hymn “Softly and Tenderly” from the dual-language hymnbook. The microphones were on, and the unseen singers’ voices filled the whole (noisy) sanctuary as about 800 of us gathered (the leaflet explained there were another 1200 seats in the undercroft, where the service could be viewed on closed-circuit TVs.) A piano accompanied the practice, and was the only instrument used throughout the service. I looked around, and noticed the similarities between this late 19th c. church and the one I grew up in, especially lots of dark wood moldings, wainscoting, window frames and sills and the abundance of Roman arches. This one is octagonal, though, and not as cheerful as Pilgrim Church was...
Then practice stopped, there was a rustle and a murmur, and in came in the choir (21 of them + leader) to a largo tempo, one foot plodding after another as if to a dirge and then the two ministers, Liturgist Liu Cuimin (woman) and Preacher Zhang Wezshe. All the while, the cluster of us non-feverish English speakers in the corner had our headphones on and were listening to a quiet-voiced Chinese woman simultaneously translate or freestyle explain what was happening. The service continued on, much like the Congregationalist ones I attended as a kid until right after the Bible readings. The woman minister announced that now was time for baptisms. Onto the enormous screen was projected the word “Baptism” in English (and, I assume the Chinese said the same thing) and there he was, Jesus of the flowing auburn hair, gathering people to him. So the minister asked the baptismees (?) to come forward and I was wondering if there was going to be immersion, but that didn’t happen. On the other hand, 39 young adults came forward and for the next 15 minutes or so, we said familiar prayers and listened as Liu Cuimin said (in Chinese) “I baptize you in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost.” The word I heard the most was “shén shèng”, which I discover means, “Holy.” After the new Christians had received a round of applause and returned to their seats, Liu Cuimin said the church was grateful that there were over 100 people to be baptized at this time, and the rite would be performed over four services.
After the choir’s rendition of some enthusiastic hymn, Pastor Zhang got up to preach on some Matthean passage about wicked generations and gnashing of teeth. I sat through it for about 25 minutes, with the preacher’s voice rising and falling, and his haranguing us about being human and not getting into the Kingdom of Heaven. Made me appreciate Adrian and Sarah even more than I usually do. Finally, frankly, I didn’t give a damn if I made a small scene, and took off my headphones and slipped out into the courtyard, where I breathed deeply and happily some fresh air. The sulfurous fumes of hellfire and scorched my sensibilities.
I called Ying, who said they hadn’t been able to find a parking place, and Duo would come for me in about a half hour. I took the time to walk around a bit. Down the alley from the church towards the Chongwen Subway station, I had to pass by a number of the lame and crippled, some sitting on the ground with their prosthetic legs or feet next to them, one lying on a filthy pallet and looking at me with imploring eyes. I will increase my donation to the Presiding Bishop’s Fund...
It was at the subway station that I saw the young man wearing the shirt of the Evil Empire and asked if I could take his picture. He smiled, said yes, and said carefully, “Yankees my favorite team.” I just sighed and said, “Boston Red Sox,” and wished I were wearing one of my seven R.S. shirts.
Ying and Duo brought me to meet their grandfather’s brother, Liu Laoshi (Teacher Liu), who is a Tai Chi Master. He has agreed to have me as a pupil while I am here. I met Teacher Liu is 80+ and is actually, the President of Yin/Yang Tai Chi in China. I don’t know if I’ve ever been so honored. We spent a little less than an hour together, and by the end I was dripping with sweat--it's not that hot today, but I was concentrating and working so hard. Amazing. Everything he said either Ying or Duo translated. First thing was: walk softly, gently (don't thump.) This after he saw me taking three steps towards him to shake his hand and bow. Then about qi--I need to get it out of my shoulders and into my belly. Then the hands, like gently touching the finest silk or holding a ball between the hands. Be as quiet as a cat waiting for a mouse. Keep the head even. Never step in a straight line, move your feet and hands in circles and be gentle gentle gentle. I am to practice for 30-40 minutes a day and go back in a week. Wow. This was the most important part of an amazing day, but I have the fewest words for it. I made a movie but can’t send it: it’s too long.
Teacher Liu actually lives in Lanzhou and had come in Beijing last month because he was very ill and needed the specialized care found only in hospitals here. He has only been up for about a week. When he did the opening Tai Chi sequence for me, Ying’s mother followed him, her hands up, ready to catch him if he stumbled. He didn’t. His every movement was graceful and beautiful. When he showed me a movement or corrected what I did, he was very gentle and very precise. Ying apologized, saying he was teaching me as a master, and everything had to be perfect. She said, “This is very basic and very important,” and I said, “Yes, it is fundamental, the foundation of everything.” Teacher Liu has always wanted to teach those of Ying and Duo’s generation and they have eschewed his offers. They did it with me yesterday, though, along with their mothers, so we had quite a class going in the elegant courtyard. Many other residents came and sat on the perimeter walls and watched. I was aware of them only vaguely, trying so hard to breathe, step, hold my arms and hands right, get the chi out of my shoulders and into my nelly, keep my front leg at a 45° angle, touch silk, not thump but walk as silently as a cat stalking a mouse. Amazing, amazing. What an opportunity, how lucky I am.
The day ended with a meeting. Four students, with some of their parents, have come from Lanzhou (where both Ying and Kongli’s families are from) to attend our classes. We all met and had dinner together last night at the sumptuous Xinjiang Hotel. We had a 12-course dinner which did not include (but was available) horse intestines and camel paws. Some of the food was so spicy I could only bring it near my lips but not into my mouth, but most of it was, as usual, delicious. The meal was (yin/yang) balanced as to color, texture, & flavor. There seemed to be as much left as we ate, and we all got to bring our favorites home (I just ate my lamb & rice for breakfast.)
I’ve run out of energy and words. Except for one thing. I have promised Ying that when she & Kongli visit me in Peterborough, we at All Saints’ will NOT make her leave if she is wearing sandals. I told her that actually, the only clothing incident I could imagine that might cause a reaction would be if someone showed up nude. Then we would take that person to the Serendipity Shop and let them choose what they wanted.
Much love to you all. Thanks for reading;
Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:43 AM
Don’t hold your breath, but I think I’ve figured out how to get my pictures onto Kodak Gallery! I downloaded their tool “Easy Share” and use it directly from Firefox instead of going through iPhoto, and it seems to have worked. I’ll e-mail everybody I know who is in my Kodak address book and invite them to view the photos, and if you read this and haven’t gotten an invitation, then please e-mail me and I’ll send you one. This means that I have Beijing pictures floating around in the cyberspace worlds of Picasa, Apple’s Mobileme, Photobucket, Kodak Gallery, and my blog. I’ll try to stick to just Kodak, but who knows how long I’ll going to be allowed to upload?That’s all for the cyber story.
Yesterday I went to Tian Tan, the Temple of Heaven, with Duo. A major tourist attraction, I saw more Westerners there than I’ve seen anywhere else, including the crowded Silk Market. But still we were outnumbered by Chinese, for a couple of reasons: there were tons of tour groups being led around by flag-bearing official tour guides (remember fabulous Tony from our first trip here, Cindy?) and many of them were from other cities in China. People from all over the country come here to their nation’s capital to see the sites, just as we brought our 90 SMS kids to Washington this year on AHT, meeting hundreds of other school groups from across America. There were also tons and tons of people who come not to view the historical monuments, but to play in the park. Unlike many of our famous sites (but not all, think of Lexington and Gettysburg...hmm...battlefields...well Mount Vernon then...) it’s not just the building, but the grounds that are part of the monument. I learned that the Temple of Heaven, where Ming and Qing emperors came to make sacrifices to insure good harvests, has actually got more land attached that the Forbidden City!
The buildings themselves are gorgeous, again laid out in the classical Chinese plan of numerous gates and courtyards leading to the most important building. The colors in real life are even more magnificent than in the photos: brilliant blues--cerulean, sky, royal, aqua--and of course Imperial red & gold. The day was h-o-t and steamy, but the first couple of courtyards were still very very crowded. We didn’t even try to look inside the windows of the Imperial Vault of Heaven, the waiting line was so long and the glimpse was so short. By the time Duo and I had traversed two more courtyards and walked on countless acres of marble, we were able to get to the Hall of Prayers for Good Harvests easily--and we saw lots of Western tourists there!
On the way, we saw huge crowds gathered in the parks--some sitting, many watching the Poi (silk scarf) performers & buying souvenirs and frozen treats (Green Pea ice cream, anyone?) An older couple was playing a Tai Chi ball game, and invited me to try. I occasionally caught the ball on the paddle and slammed it back--totally negating the graceful, coordinated gestures of Tai Chi. Duo felt so bad for me, he bought a set and told me he will teach me how to play (even though he had never played it before.) Incidentally, I’ve told Ying and Duo that i would like to do Tai Chi in the morning with people in a nearby park, and that is entirely possible--except I haven’t been in a clear sleeping pattern yet and haven’t been up at 5:30 or 6:00! Ying told me that her grandfather’s brother, who is in his 80’s, is a Tai Chi master and might like to teach me--he keeps offering to train the younger generation (Ying’s) but no one wants to learn! I hope this works out. (How cool would that be--my very own Mr. Miyagi!)
As in many other places I’ve been to here, I’m always amazed at what some of the Chinese wear. I only posted a picture of a bride in her gown that reminded me of Betsy’s Wedding--short in front and with a train--but I saw lots and lots of young women wearing spike heels as they clambered around on the uneven courtyard stones.
Throughout the morning, Duo taught me Chinese words. I can’t remember most of them, even though I wrote them down. The pronunciation gets me--I honestly think I’m saying EXACTLY what he says, and he shakes his head and says the same damn thing again and I say the same damn thing again and he says, “Yes, you’ve got it!” I have no idea what I do or don’t do, but Duo has taken up the practice of saying, “Look at my mouth” which is what I say to him about speaking English! The only one I remember this morning is “Ku ai,” which means, “Cute baby,” a phrase I find myself using over and over here in Beijing!
After we left Tian Tan, Duo brought me to Santilan, which is an upscale new mall in the Embassy district of the city. It’s the “happening” place, where lots of young professionals--Chinese and Western--hang out. There I met my niece Jeanie Mah’s cousin Amelia and her friend Hope. Amelia and Hope both work in Beijing for international agencies that deal with climate change in one way or another, Amelia is with a UN task force on sustainable agriculture and Hope works with a group based in Switzerland whose name I fear I can’t remember. What fun to spend time with such clever, dedicated, friendly people. Both are native Chinese and fluent in English, so they were fabulous companions. This mall is something else: huge international stores--Adidas and Apple, for instance, and numerous healthy places to eat. Our “element fresh restaurant” served delightful salads, artisan sandwiches, and healthy smoothies, among other Asian dishes. Throughout the outdoor part of the mall were tall poles with water spraying from the top meter--cooling off spots. I can imagine Ben, Sam, & Lila hanging out in those spots & running back and forth, with Nico not far behind.
After I ate (they had finished by the time I got there), we went across to an incredible Japanese market. What a difference between it and Carrefour’s, where I had shopped on Friday with Duo. No loud, hawking vendors, no bins of grains that people are digging into with their unwashed hands--orderly aisles, imported goods from all over (I found oatmeal!), and many helpful shop girls. At the checkout counter there were at least six credit card machines for the different cards the clientele from this international neighborhood might use. Amelia and Hope agreed to go to Peking Opera with me--not the one-hour tourist version that I saw eight years ago but a real three-hour performance. Hope kept telling me it would be long and I wouldn’t understand anything, and I know...I just want to see this cultural icon. No Chinese I have spoken to who’s under 50 has actually been to one of these performances, but many have said, “Oh, I’ve always thought I should go to one...”
Amelia and Hope left to do other things and I went to the nearby touristy shop, much like the Silk Shop I had been to the other day. This one is smaller and I didn’t find as much silk as in the first store, which I will go back to to make some purchases.
And then I took a cab back to to Maliandao (“Say it in three separate parts, Christine. If you keep rushing it and putting the parts together, people will think you are saying an English word. Mah-li-an-dao.”) Duo had instructed me to phone him and hand the cell to the cabbie so Duo could give him instructions in chinese (I also have a note in my bag for when I get lost. It says something like “Please take me to 15 Maliandao. My two friends in Beijing are Ying and Duo. Their numbers are xxxxx and xxxxx. Call them if you need directions.”) I felt quite comfortably doing so, and was reasonably relaxed during the 50 minute cab ride across town (cost 42 yuan, or $6.) The distance was only 18.5 miles (I got a printed receipt) but traffic was unbelievable. The driver left me off on a main street, not at my apartment, and it took me a minute to figure out where I was--my block was right across the street, but I didn’t recognize it, coming from the other direction. I was very proud of myself.
This morning, we are going to church. I had meant to go to the grocery store first (as always, I forgot to pick up some things...) but I don’t think I have time, since it’s already 9:24.
Thanks for reading!
Yesterday I went to Tian Tan, the Temple of Heaven, with Duo. A major tourist attraction, I saw more Westerners there than I’ve seen anywhere else, including the crowded Silk Market. But still we were outnumbered by Chinese, for a couple of reasons: there were tons of tour groups being led around by flag-bearing official tour guides (remember fabulous Tony from our first trip here, Cindy?) and many of them were from other cities in China. People from all over the country come here to their nation’s capital to see the sites, just as we brought our 90 SMS kids to Washington this year on AHT, meeting hundreds of other school groups from across America. There were also tons and tons of people who come not to view the historical monuments, but to play in the park. Unlike many of our famous sites (but not all, think of Lexington and Gettysburg...hmm...battlefields...well Mount Vernon then...) it’s not just the building, but the grounds that are part of the monument. I learned that the Temple of Heaven, where Ming and Qing emperors came to make sacrifices to insure good harvests, has actually got more land attached that the Forbidden City!
The buildings themselves are gorgeous, again laid out in the classical Chinese plan of numerous gates and courtyards leading to the most important building. The colors in real life are even more magnificent than in the photos: brilliant blues--cerulean, sky, royal, aqua--and of course Imperial red & gold. The day was h-o-t and steamy, but the first couple of courtyards were still very very crowded. We didn’t even try to look inside the windows of the Imperial Vault of Heaven, the waiting line was so long and the glimpse was so short. By the time Duo and I had traversed two more courtyards and walked on countless acres of marble, we were able to get to the Hall of Prayers for Good Harvests easily--and we saw lots of Western tourists there!
On the way, we saw huge crowds gathered in the parks--some sitting, many watching the Poi (silk scarf) performers & buying souvenirs and frozen treats (Green Pea ice cream, anyone?) An older couple was playing a Tai Chi ball game, and invited me to try. I occasionally caught the ball on the paddle and slammed it back--totally negating the graceful, coordinated gestures of Tai Chi. Duo felt so bad for me, he bought a set and told me he will teach me how to play (even though he had never played it before.) Incidentally, I’ve told Ying and Duo that i would like to do Tai Chi in the morning with people in a nearby park, and that is entirely possible--except I haven’t been in a clear sleeping pattern yet and haven’t been up at 5:30 or 6:00! Ying told me that her grandfather’s brother, who is in his 80’s, is a Tai Chi master and might like to teach me--he keeps offering to train the younger generation (Ying’s) but no one wants to learn! I hope this works out. (How cool would that be--my very own Mr. Miyagi!)
As in many other places I’ve been to here, I’m always amazed at what some of the Chinese wear. I only posted a picture of a bride in her gown that reminded me of Betsy’s Wedding--short in front and with a train--but I saw lots and lots of young women wearing spike heels as they clambered around on the uneven courtyard stones.
Throughout the morning, Duo taught me Chinese words. I can’t remember most of them, even though I wrote them down. The pronunciation gets me--I honestly think I’m saying EXACTLY what he says, and he shakes his head and says the same damn thing again and I say the same damn thing again and he says, “Yes, you’ve got it!” I have no idea what I do or don’t do, but Duo has taken up the practice of saying, “Look at my mouth” which is what I say to him about speaking English! The only one I remember this morning is “Ku ai,” which means, “Cute baby,” a phrase I find myself using over and over here in Beijing!
After we left Tian Tan, Duo brought me to Santilan, which is an upscale new mall in the Embassy district of the city. It’s the “happening” place, where lots of young professionals--Chinese and Western--hang out. There I met my niece Jeanie Mah’s cousin Amelia and her friend Hope. Amelia and Hope both work in Beijing for international agencies that deal with climate change in one way or another, Amelia is with a UN task force on sustainable agriculture and Hope works with a group based in Switzerland whose name I fear I can’t remember. What fun to spend time with such clever, dedicated, friendly people. Both are native Chinese and fluent in English, so they were fabulous companions. This mall is something else: huge international stores--Adidas and Apple, for instance, and numerous healthy places to eat. Our “element fresh restaurant” served delightful salads, artisan sandwiches, and healthy smoothies, among other Asian dishes. Throughout the outdoor part of the mall were tall poles with water spraying from the top meter--cooling off spots. I can imagine Ben, Sam, & Lila hanging out in those spots & running back and forth, with Nico not far behind.
After I ate (they had finished by the time I got there), we went across to an incredible Japanese market. What a difference between it and Carrefour’s, where I had shopped on Friday with Duo. No loud, hawking vendors, no bins of grains that people are digging into with their unwashed hands--orderly aisles, imported goods from all over (I found oatmeal!), and many helpful shop girls. At the checkout counter there were at least six credit card machines for the different cards the clientele from this international neighborhood might use. Amelia and Hope agreed to go to Peking Opera with me--not the one-hour tourist version that I saw eight years ago but a real three-hour performance. Hope kept telling me it would be long and I wouldn’t understand anything, and I know...I just want to see this cultural icon. No Chinese I have spoken to who’s under 50 has actually been to one of these performances, but many have said, “Oh, I’ve always thought I should go to one...”
Amelia and Hope left to do other things and I went to the nearby touristy shop, much like the Silk Shop I had been to the other day. This one is smaller and I didn’t find as much silk as in the first store, which I will go back to to make some purchases.
And then I took a cab back to to Maliandao (“Say it in three separate parts, Christine. If you keep rushing it and putting the parts together, people will think you are saying an English word. Mah-li-an-dao.”) Duo had instructed me to phone him and hand the cell to the cabbie so Duo could give him instructions in chinese (I also have a note in my bag for when I get lost. It says something like “Please take me to 15 Maliandao. My two friends in Beijing are Ying and Duo. Their numbers are xxxxx and xxxxx. Call them if you need directions.”) I felt quite comfortably doing so, and was reasonably relaxed during the 50 minute cab ride across town (cost 42 yuan, or $6.) The distance was only 18.5 miles (I got a printed receipt) but traffic was unbelievable. The driver left me off on a main street, not at my apartment, and it took me a minute to figure out where I was--my block was right across the street, but I didn’t recognize it, coming from the other direction. I was very proud of myself.
This morning, we are going to church. I had meant to go to the grocery store first (as always, I forgot to pick up some things...) but I don’t think I have time, since it’s already 9:24.
Thanks for reading!
Friday, July 17, 2009
Friday, July 17, 2009
Thank God for modern miracles: I was just able to visit with Jen, Ben, & Sam and then Kath, Lila, and Nico using Skype technology. It’s astonishing that I can be over 7,000 miles away from them and still be able to see/speak with them. How very, very wonderful. Everyone looks so WELL! I can’t imagine how olden day people did it...travel for months or years at a time without word from family and friends. Another point for the 21st Century!
I met some of my students today. It’s been pouring first and then drizzling all day, so everything got off at a slow pace and stayed that way throughout. We met in a private banquette on the top floor of Dio Coffee, where you know we’ve been before. (This time I got a cup of Colombian coffee and it was the best I’ve had since being in Beijing) One student canceled because of the weather and everything else was late getting started, but I was delighted to meet four of them, one after another. The first, Ran, is a lovely 19-year old who has finished high school and wants to improve her spoken English before continuing her studies. She is a championship swimmer--she said “Professional”--I’ll have to find out what that means. She was very shy and very pleasant. Her mother came with her, and smiled and nodded. The next was a 16-year old boy, Zhi, whose father is a friend of Ying’s family. He was very, very, very shy and it was hard to get him to talk to me. I think he understood more than he said, and I tried my best not to ask “Yes” or “No” questions, but he outmaneuvered me and gave one-word answers most of the time. My challenge will be to get him to relax and talk more! The third--yikes, I can’t remember her name--is a young woman who just finished her second year at Beijing Agricultural College, where she is majoring in Mechanical Engineering. She was lively and ebullient and talked freely about her hobby (mountain climbing) and why she wants to take this course (speaking English is very important in the world today!) Duo and Ying said she must be very bright because it is very hard to get into BAC. The last student has the same name as part of my Chinese name--Ting--and she was very funny and pleasant. She kept wanting Duo or Ying to give her words, and they were working hard not to. She, too, was lively and funny. She has finished college and works in an office. She is taking two weeks off to take this course because learning to speak English well is important. I asked her if she knew anything about the geography or history of the US, and she said she knows about Utah. “Utah?” I asked, “Why Utah?” “Because Ross went there...” “Ross?” “Yes, you know, Ross on Friends,” Turns out Friends is hugely popular with many Chinese. I can see showing an episode in class and then talking about it. Might be lots of fun! I told Ting I always loved Ross, too.
After our interviews with these students (I think we have more tomorrow or Sunday--Ying is arranging meetings as students and their parents request them), we went to lunch at a Japanese place. I kept trying to take pictures on our way there, we went through so many neighborhoods, but between the car window (couldn’t keep it rolled down because of the rain) and the speed and my not knowing what was coming up, the only ones I got were awful and I discarded them. Anyway, we did go by some hutongs--the old walled neighborhoods--and it was good to see that part of Beijing still exists in some of the city. Lunch was great, and then Ying went back to work at the University and Duo drove me to the Capital Museum, a new cultural museum built since my last visit.
One of the things that struck me was how very much I had learned in that Primary Source course I took twelve years ago--and how grateful I am that I taught Chinese history/geography as many times as I did. I did understand a lot of what I was viewing! Seeing artifacts from way back to the Xia (earliest) and Shang dynasties (c. 2000-1000 BCE) was amazing. Although the information cards did give the names of objects in English, most of the write-ups were in Chinese. You know, it’s not like being in a French museum, where you can sort of figure out what words mean because of cognates. I get incredibly thrilled here when I can recognize anything (白 means “white” and 人 means “person” and 中国 means “China,” but that just doesn’t get you very far in understanding a curatorial description of an object!) The MFA in Boston has a great collection of Chinese art, but Beijing has more! I hope my pictures made it to the web, for I did take numerous shots of some of what I considered most beautiful.
The Beijing Capital Museum has a really wild architectural style. It reminds me in many ways of the new Asian in San Francisco—lots of light and numerous levels. The one here has two distinctively different wings—the West is quite typical, with flat floors and walls and rooms. The East is a round and slanted, with a circular corridor and uneven floor winding up to each level. Those of you who know me can imagine that yes, I got a bit seasick walking up to the top. The exhibitions of ancient calligraphy and pottery were worth it, though. The lowest level, under both wings, houses the gift shop (I love museum gift shops!) and a gorgeous bamboo garden/courtyard.
I stayed at the museum for a couple of hours, and then Duo picked me up and brought me once again to Carrefour’s, where I did some grocery shopping. I need to make a video of this store. Unbelievable. First of all, it’s noisy like you wouldn’t believe. People are hawking their products as if they were on the city street—yelling, yelling, yelling. Customers bustle around, pushing carts and looking over—hah, touching—items. Grains—rice, beans—are in open bins and people shove their hands in and scoop around, looking at it and then using one of the plastic dishes to put some into a thin plastic bag. Fishmongers have their open-eyed prey on ice right in an aisle. There are no oats. No oats. No oats. I should have known…Duo told me he can get me better produce at cheaper prices at the open-air markets on the street. He was worried that I wouldn't get enough fruits and vegetables, and also that I would get good sauces for my rice. He helped me choose some that aren’t too spicy.
For supper, Duo bought me a Peking Chicken sandwich from KFC—found only in Beijing, it’s made to imitate Peking Duck of course, with meat, cuke, and scallions rolled up into a pancake-like bread.
That’s it—then I came home, then the kids an I Skyped, and now it’s taken me an hour to write this. Another interesting day in China
I met some of my students today. It’s been pouring first and then drizzling all day, so everything got off at a slow pace and stayed that way throughout. We met in a private banquette on the top floor of Dio Coffee, where you know we’ve been before. (This time I got a cup of Colombian coffee and it was the best I’ve had since being in Beijing) One student canceled because of the weather and everything else was late getting started, but I was delighted to meet four of them, one after another. The first, Ran, is a lovely 19-year old who has finished high school and wants to improve her spoken English before continuing her studies. She is a championship swimmer--she said “Professional”--I’ll have to find out what that means. She was very shy and very pleasant. Her mother came with her, and smiled and nodded. The next was a 16-year old boy, Zhi, whose father is a friend of Ying’s family. He was very, very, very shy and it was hard to get him to talk to me. I think he understood more than he said, and I tried my best not to ask “Yes” or “No” questions, but he outmaneuvered me and gave one-word answers most of the time. My challenge will be to get him to relax and talk more! The third--yikes, I can’t remember her name--is a young woman who just finished her second year at Beijing Agricultural College, where she is majoring in Mechanical Engineering. She was lively and ebullient and talked freely about her hobby (mountain climbing) and why she wants to take this course (speaking English is very important in the world today!) Duo and Ying said she must be very bright because it is very hard to get into BAC. The last student has the same name as part of my Chinese name--Ting--and she was very funny and pleasant. She kept wanting Duo or Ying to give her words, and they were working hard not to. She, too, was lively and funny. She has finished college and works in an office. She is taking two weeks off to take this course because learning to speak English well is important. I asked her if she knew anything about the geography or history of the US, and she said she knows about Utah. “Utah?” I asked, “Why Utah?” “Because Ross went there...” “Ross?” “Yes, you know, Ross on Friends,” Turns out Friends is hugely popular with many Chinese. I can see showing an episode in class and then talking about it. Might be lots of fun! I told Ting I always loved Ross, too.
After our interviews with these students (I think we have more tomorrow or Sunday--Ying is arranging meetings as students and their parents request them), we went to lunch at a Japanese place. I kept trying to take pictures on our way there, we went through so many neighborhoods, but between the car window (couldn’t keep it rolled down because of the rain) and the speed and my not knowing what was coming up, the only ones I got were awful and I discarded them. Anyway, we did go by some hutongs--the old walled neighborhoods--and it was good to see that part of Beijing still exists in some of the city. Lunch was great, and then Ying went back to work at the University and Duo drove me to the Capital Museum, a new cultural museum built since my last visit.
One of the things that struck me was how very much I had learned in that Primary Source course I took twelve years ago--and how grateful I am that I taught Chinese history/geography as many times as I did. I did understand a lot of what I was viewing! Seeing artifacts from way back to the Xia (earliest) and Shang dynasties (c. 2000-1000 BCE) was amazing. Although the information cards did give the names of objects in English, most of the write-ups were in Chinese. You know, it’s not like being in a French museum, where you can sort of figure out what words mean because of cognates. I get incredibly thrilled here when I can recognize anything (白 means “white” and 人 means “person” and 中国 means “China,” but that just doesn’t get you very far in understanding a curatorial description of an object!) The MFA in Boston has a great collection of Chinese art, but Beijing has more! I hope my pictures made it to the web, for I did take numerous shots of some of what I considered most beautiful.
The Beijing Capital Museum has a really wild architectural style. It reminds me in many ways of the new Asian in San Francisco—lots of light and numerous levels. The one here has two distinctively different wings—the West is quite typical, with flat floors and walls and rooms. The East is a round and slanted, with a circular corridor and uneven floor winding up to each level. Those of you who know me can imagine that yes, I got a bit seasick walking up to the top. The exhibitions of ancient calligraphy and pottery were worth it, though. The lowest level, under both wings, houses the gift shop (I love museum gift shops!) and a gorgeous bamboo garden/courtyard.
I stayed at the museum for a couple of hours, and then Duo picked me up and brought me once again to Carrefour’s, where I did some grocery shopping. I need to make a video of this store. Unbelievable. First of all, it’s noisy like you wouldn’t believe. People are hawking their products as if they were on the city street—yelling, yelling, yelling. Customers bustle around, pushing carts and looking over—hah, touching—items. Grains—rice, beans—are in open bins and people shove their hands in and scoop around, looking at it and then using one of the plastic dishes to put some into a thin plastic bag. Fishmongers have their open-eyed prey on ice right in an aisle. There are no oats. No oats. No oats. I should have known…Duo told me he can get me better produce at cheaper prices at the open-air markets on the street. He was worried that I wouldn't get enough fruits and vegetables, and also that I would get good sauces for my rice. He helped me choose some that aren’t too spicy.
For supper, Duo bought me a Peking Chicken sandwich from KFC—found only in Beijing, it’s made to imitate Peking Duck of course, with meat, cuke, and scallions rolled up into a pancake-like bread.
That’s it—then I came home, then the kids an I Skyped, and now it’s taken me an hour to write this. Another interesting day in China
6:31 AM, July 17--Harry Potter (again!), Bowling, and Feet
6:31 AM, July 17
Before Duo and Ying picked me up yesterday, I took a little walk in the neighborhood. I was vaguely trying to get to the Carrefour to buy another kitchen sponge, but was happy just to walk around--which is good, because I turned the wrong way at my first opportun
ity and didn’t go anywhere near big Maliandao Ave with tea shops and the Carrefour. I’m attaching the two photos I took yesterday, one of a river a couple of blocks away and another of a high-rise building beyond that. In back of where I took the photos (and where I came from), the buildings are much shorter, squatter, and dingier.
ity and didn’t go anywhere near big Maliandao Ave with tea shops and the Carrefour. I’m attaching the two photos I took yesterday, one of a river a couple of blocks away and another of a high-rise building beyond that. In back of where I took the photos (and where I came from), the buildings are much shorter, squatter, and dingier. Duo and I spent a lot of time together yesterday (Ying was at the University, getting things ready for classes beginning next Tuesday.) He’s getting more and more confident about his English, so he chatters away (when Ying, his sister isn’t with us. When she’s here, he lets her do the talking.) As we were driving to see Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince in English (with Mandarin subtitles), he told me the movie would be shorter here than in the U.S. I asked why, and he said the Government Office removes all lines that could be interpr
eted as having a political context. I have no idea if anything politically sensitive was removed, since all the film adaptations (and this one in particular) seem to me to be just rather arbitrary, episodic glimpses into the magical world of Harry and his companions.
eted as having a political context. I have no idea if anything politically sensitive was removed, since all the film adaptations (and this one in particular) seem to me to be just rather arbitrary, episodic glimpses into the magical world of Harry and his companions. I’m not a great fan of David Yates’s interpretation of the tales, preferring any of the three previous directors to him. Although I know that the books get darker and creepier as you-know-who gains ascendancy in the Hogwarts and Muggles world, I think Yates has slicked up the movies so Rowling’s clever integration of bildungsroman, adventure, magic, and heroic tale is diminished. I don’t know how anyone who hasn’t read the books can comprehend character development or tensions between the characters and their conflicting needs in this glitzy movie. I found myself during HP6 wishing for the cute Harry of the first few films. Daniel Radcliffe’s slight stature, tense jaw, and thin-lipped lack of emotion interrupted my enjoyment. Rupert Grimes’s Ron Weasley is as delightful as ever, and Emma Watson’s Hermione is, as ever, totally convincing.
Back to China. After the movie, Duo and I went to supper at a mall near the movie theatre. I had chicken satay and rice with peppers. He had chicken wings and rice. Both were tasty. Poor Duo and Ying keep handing me napkins, though, because I do drop food out of my chopsticks a lot. I haven’t quite got the hang of bringing my face way down close to the bowl and slurping, and instead bring the chopsticks to my mouth and dribble on my chin. I’ll get used to the Chinese style before the seven weeks are up, I’m sure. We chatted about lots of things--the movie we had seen, the dozens and dozens of army (green uniforms) and air force (blue uniforms) we had seen wandering through the underground mall where the cinema is. Many were carrying brown bags, and we saw a bunch coming from one end, so we had gone to check it out: it looked as if there had been a party at a bowling alley. Yes, bowling alley. Large, colorful balls and tenpins. I tried to explain candlepin bowling to Duo, and he sort of crossed his eyes and made a face. “Why another kind of bowling?” There were also numerous athletic clubs on this level of the mall, including a women-only club with numerous handsome, young, muscular male attendants visible & squash and basketball courts with adolescents playing.
(Incidentally, I have seen remarkably few people my age and only one pregnant person, although quite a few babies and toddlers--often with grandmothers. Mandatory retirement age for everyone is 55, but some government offices and companies require people to step down at 50.)
Back to supper. After our main meal, Duo was really, really, excited to bring me to Honeymoon Desserts, a new restaurant from Hong Kong, which serves his favorite concoctions. The one he ordered for us (and why didn’t I take a picture?) came in a pretty square bowl: milky (coconut milk, I think) pudding, with a corner of smushed Dragon Fruit (looks like fish roe) and bits of melon floating through. First you mix it all together. Since I’m determined not to be a wimp (although I told Duo I just couldn’t eat pig intestines or bugs), I did what Duo did and scooped up a spoonful. It really was quite refreshing, with a delicate flavor and cooling effect. (Peggy Van & Sue Morash will be interested to note that another item on the menu was a Durian dessert, but Duo said he doesn’t like it because it smells too bad!)
I guess I’m long-winded this morning, so I’ll jump to the final event of the day: hour-long Chinese foot massages. We met Ying at a place quite near my apartment and were greeted by a lovely young woman in red qi pao (the mandarin-collared dress you think of as being traditional Chinese) who led us to a comfortable room with couches where Ying and I removed our shoes and reclined. Two healthy, athletic young men came in with little plastic tool kits and plastic-lined bamboo tubs. We soaked our feet while the men massaged our arms (lots of slapping and pulling and a fabulously relaxing effect). Then on to the feet--reminded me of the foot reflexology massage I’d once had, along with what I get with my regular massages--but much more intense. Felt great, actually. Lots of lotions and warm towels. All the time this was going on, Ying and I were watching the equivalent of American Idol--called Pretty Girls or something like that, and also another show which was a contest to see which Westerner could speak Chinese the best. When they were done, the guys reminded Ying to tell me to drink plenty of water (to remove the toxins) and also promised that I would sleep well, which I did except for my usual hour being up in the middle of the night.
Enough for today. Thanks for reading.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
8:13 PM, Wednesday July 15
A couple of observations:
Duo, my driver and often my guide, is very shy and doesn't talk much when his cousin Ying is around, but we chat a lot when we're traveling around Beijing. After we went by the CCTV screen last night with the picture of the Uighur man, he said, "Uighurs are thieves. They train their children to be thieves. Even the little ones." "Oh," I said.
A little later we were talking about what's on TV around here, and almost 24-hours a day you can get state-run programs (dramas) about WW II. He said, "Americans don't know why we hate the Japanese, how horrible they were to us from 1933 until the end of the war. The Koreans feel the same way about them." "Oh," I said.
We went to the Police Station this morning, and the Supervisor was there. Duo's uncle (Ying's father) had gotten somebody (I'd guess--a secretary) to type up the other missing documents. Pages and pages of vouchers and affadavits and proofs of ownserhip, giving me permission to live in a Chinese neighborhood. The Supervisor typed tons of info into her computer and out printed a little 5-copy NCR form giving me official permission to be here. I need to carry it with me at all times, with my passport...The woman was very pleasant and efficient. She seemed to like it that I said, "Ni hao" (Hello) and "Xie xie" (Thank you.)
After lunch at a mall, Ying and I had our nails done. It was actually quite a lot of fun. We are going to get professional foot massages tomorrow--not just pedicures, but real Chinese foot massages. Can't wait.Duo brought me to the Silk Market (he went off to do an errand), & I spent an hour walking up and down the aisles of the five-story building. Everywhere I went, young women called out, "Lady, Lady, come here, you wanna buy (a necktie for your husband or boyfriend?, a pashmina shawl? some unnerpants? a chess set? a silk nightgown?...." At one place I stopped to look at a cute Chinese two-piece pajama set for a three year old, and I asked how much it would cost. 580 RMB, said the woman ($84). I said, "I'm not buying anything today, just looking." She said, 400--200--100. And I kept saying "I'm not buying anything today." Finally, I walked away and she called out, "For you, 50!" I still didn't buy, but now I know how far I can go with my "Tai guay leh" (costs too much) line. There were a few of the saleswomen who were really pleasant, and I took their cards and will go back to them when I'm ready to buy.
Then Duo and I went to the Lama Temple--Tibetan Buddhist--(getting lost--oh, not really lost, but in the wrong lane and so having to drive an extra few miles before we could turn around), where I've been before and where I love. Too bad: we got there at 4:35 and it closes at 4:30, so we walked down the street to the Confucian Temple, whose gates were open. It r
eally is beautiful, built hundreds of years ago in classic Chinese style, with a series of gated courtyards leading into, the final, and most important, hall. In that building are bells and gongs and guqin (classical stringed instruments), altars, and--photographs of Chinese leaders--even Communist--paying homage to Confucius at this temple to gain credence with the people for their government.
eally is beautiful, built hundreds of years ago in classic Chinese style, with a series of gated courtyards leading into, the final, and most important, hall. In that building are bells and gongs and guqin (classical stringed instruments), altars, and--photographs of Chinese leaders--even Communist--paying homage to Confucius at this temple to gain credence with the people for their government.Then another meal. Who can believe this. Ying and I are talking about how we each plan to lose 15-20 pounds this summer (what I gained in nursing school and what she's gained since coming to the US to get her master's at Tufts in 2003). Hah. Keep up these four course meals and it ain't gonna happen. Anyway, I asked Duo to order, and he got little pork bo
nes in a very flavorful sauce, two different dim sum (dumplings)--shrimp & seafood, Chinese yogurt (very sweet), steamed green veggies, plum juice, and sweet bean dumplings. All excellent. When Ying joined us (she had been at Beijing Union University, doing more work to prepare for the opening day of our classes next Tuesday), she also ordered noodles. Amazing quantities of food. Where I sat, I got to watch the shrimp, crabs, lobsters, and fish swim (or crawl) around in their tanks. Great fun.
nes in a very flavorful sauce, two different dim sum (dumplings)--shrimp & seafood, Chinese yogurt (very sweet), steamed green veggies, plum juice, and sweet bean dumplings. All excellent. When Ying joined us (she had been at Beijing Union University, doing more work to prepare for the opening day of our classes next Tuesday), she also ordered noodles. Amazing quantities of food. Where I sat, I got to watch the shrimp, crabs, lobsters, and fish swim (or crawl) around in their tanks. Great fun.So now I'm back at Maliando 15, feeling quite sleepy. Duo figured out why I've not had any hot water, so I hope to have a long, luxurious shower tomorrow!
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Tuesday, July 14
If I were in the US now, it would be almost noon. When I wake up in the morning, the All*Star game will be on. Right? This morning I unpacked, Skyped with Kath, and then went out to lunch with Ying and Duo at DIO Coffee, a rather elegant restaurant near where her father (who speaks no English) works. He has assisted Ying (his only child--she calls her cousin Duo her "brother" but that's because the extended family is so close. The grandparents have six children, six grandchildren, and one great-grandchild. Ying and Duo have talked about the party the family will have to meet me--and I assume Kacie, my co-teacher, when she gets here next Monday.)
We met Ying's father because he, the Assistant Minister of Something, has been instrumental in helping Ying and Yongli develop this summer program. The apartment Kacie and I have belongs to one of his friends, and Father had to give the deed and his friend's Beijing ID to Duo/Ying to take to the Police Station today when I would register. Besides the regular Visiting Alien Not Residing in a Hotel or Guesthouse form at the police station, there were other papers to be filled out: the Alien Living in a Chinese Neighborhood in Property Where There Are No Other Aliens forms. Father stayed only to greet us and hand over the papers we needed, and then went back to work. We ate (seems there is always another many-coursed meal) and then went to the Police Station.
As I have noticed previously in China, when Ying started to explain to the young Alien Registration Officer why she was there and who I am (I did recognize the word "teacher," laoshi; the informal word for stranger is similar, laowi) they started yelling at each other. I don't think they were angry, but they did raise their voices. Ying was told we might as well leave and she was to call back, after 2 PM, because the Supervisor of the young Alien Registration Officer was out and they had to speak.We returned to the apartment for water and to plan the next few days. Ying called the Supervisor and learned that there are more forms to be filled out. I don't know what they are, but they did entail Duo having to take time this afternoon to go to Ying's father's office. The Supervisor did say that I would not be fined for not filling out the Visiting Alien Not Residing in a Hotel or Guesthouse form within 24 hours of my arrival because I did appear at the station and the young Alien Registration Officer saw me, so the authorities know my intentions are honorable. We will go back in one or two days, when the other papers have been completed.
We discussed the next few days: what we will do on our own and what we will wait to do with the others. Apparently some of the students we will teach are coming to Beijing for the first time (first-year college students coming early for this chance to learn Conversational English) and their parents are accompanying them. There might be many of us touring around. Anyway, we will go to the Zoo, some Art Museums, Silk Road, and perhaps the Lama Buddhist Temple during the next few days. Ying and I will also get manicures and foot massages. (Did I already tell you manicures cost 2 RMB, about 29¢? No tax, no tipping.)
They left so I could rest. I read a few more pages in American Shaolin and fell fast asleep. I woke up once, hearing Nico cry, and went bounding into the living room, where I remembered I was in Beijing, not Belmont, and it couldn't have been Nico that I heard. I fell asleep for another hour, awoken by Duo's calling me at 5:30 to tell me he was at the gate to pick me up.
We went shopping to Carrefour's, a Wal*Mart-like French chain--pictures attached show what it's like. This is what I bought: a French coffee press (129 RMB, $18.90); four pretty China plates (@ 2 RMB or 29¢; an iron (159 = $23.27); two bath towels (19.9 = $2.90); two 16 oz. Cokes (@ 2.25 = 32¢);a pack of Wrigley's Cappuccino Flavor Coffee Gum (1.4 = 20¢) and a pair of hot pink plastic house slippers (7.90 = $1.16.) I later bought 8.8 ounces of Starbucks ground coffee for my new press: 85 RMB = $12.44.
"Welcome to our store!"
Duo going up escalator
Not a tourist shop...
Harry Potter and Breakfast
[A quick e-mail message from Monday night and photos from Tuesday morning. --Jen]
Ying is going to take me to see Harry Potter in English on Wednesday or Thursday. I told her I would love to see it dubbed in Mandarin w/ English subtitles, but not the first time!
Views from our living room window 
Koi in the morning
Kitchen counter
Inside the fridge...what in the world is that?
Anyone?
Bread--note the package!
Yum.
Ying is going to take me to see Harry Potter in English on Wednesday or Thursday. I told her I would love to see it dubbed in Mandarin w/ English subtitles, but not the first time!
Views from our living room window 
Koi in the morning
Kitchen counter
Inside the fridge...what in the world is that?
Anyone?
Bread--note the package!
Yum.Monday, July 13, 2009
Peking Duck
This restaurant, Royal Peking Duck House, is known to locals (i.e. residents of Beijing) rather than tourists (even from China). When we arrived at 7 PM, it was crowded with families and small groups of adults. Attached to a culinary school, everything is traditional & perfect before being brought to table--the chefs are being monitored! Carving the duck is an artform, and the slices are all uniformly thick and arranged beautifully on the platters. I could only eat three of the little burrito-like bundles, but the flavor & experience linger. You hold the pancake in one hand & pick up slices of duck with your chopsticks. Then you dip meat into duck sauce and smear it on the pancake. Arrange thinly-shredded scallions & cuke spears on top, wrap up, and eat. Delicious!
Forgot to name the dishes we had before the duck came: something like Kung Pao chicken (a Schezuan dish), spring peas & mushrooms, sliced pears & shredded cukes in orange sauce, duck liver paté. Amazingly good: delicate flavors, nothing overpowering. Although I hold my chopsticks in my own way, Ying and Duo said if it works for me, then it's right! Notice: no rice served with meal. We drank chrysanthemum tea throughout.
In Beijing!!
[This post is via e-mail; Mum can't get to Facebook or this blog! There are lots more pictures; I'll post them a little later. --Jen Cousar Costa]
So much to write! You know the story already of getting to Logan and discovering that it didn't matter that we were there only 1.5 hours ahead of flight time instead of two, since the printers for the baggage claims and boarding passes weren't working, everything was delayed. Thanks to Jen's scouting brilliance, she discovered a short line for United International passengers a few minutes before the well-projected voice of the United Airlines official asked ALL int'l passengers to move to that queue. So there was only a family going to Addis Ababa, some vacationers headed to Aruba, and some to Mexico. I briefly wondered if a North Korean worm had caused this computer crisis, but forgot that thought until I was review the day later. Jen stayed with me until I had to go through security, and I held up pretty well, I think, considering...actually, I'm always fine unless I think about being away from family for seven weeks. This is an amazing adventure.
The flight to SFO was easy and fun. The woman who sat next to me, one year older and wearing a gorgeous teal blue/lime green travel dress & sweater, and I talked much of the way. She was a flight attendant for PanAm/United for 35 years and spent much of her time making a list of all the places she had spent time in--at least a week. That list covered three pages. She had another couple of pages of places where she just spent a day or two, and other list of places she just had flown to. Karachi and Beirut and Hong Kong and--oh, I can't name them all. We also talked about kids (she had her two boys when she was 42 & 43, so they're still in college) and husbands and career changes (she's a realtor now and wonders what she should do next...). I also watched Duplicity (funny, clever, convoluted), read American Shaolin, and knit for a while. Six and a half hours is a long time.
The SFO-PEK leg was twice as long. I had a great seat: the bulkhead, so plenty of leg room. On my right was a scientist returning home who had attended a conference at UC-Davis on Chinese-American cooperation on global climate change. On my left was a young mother from Denver, originally from Beijing, who was traveling to visit family--bringing her six-year old daughter for another visit & introducing her mother to her 18-month-old son (yes, I got--get--teary at the thought of that!). Three movies, more knitting, more reading, plus a crossword puzzle, Scrabble game, numerous conversations, many gluten-free meals & snacks, and a couple of semi-conscious naps.
We had to fill out health forms stating whether we had been exposed to H1N1 or had any symptoms and giving an address/phone number where we could be reached for seven days--we will be called by a health official once or twice a day (and taken to the hospital if we have symptoms). After we landed at the Beijing Airport (code PEK), we had to remain in our seats while a squad of HAZMAT-uniformed health workers came on board and scanned our foreheads with electronic thermometers. I wasn't able to find my camera in time to photograph them. Just imagine Clockwork Orange. We all seemed to have passed--no fevers, although the mother & her children next to me were scanned both coming and going, giving us a bit of a rise--for all passengers were allowed to disembark. You'll see in the photos that we had two more health screenings to go through before we got out of the airport.
The new terminal is amazing. if you've been to Beijing before, you might recall the terminal looked kind of like Manchester [NH]'s before it was updated. Now you can see it's glassy and spacious, with industrial steel supports arching above and moving walkways below. Artwork on the walls, female voices in both Mandarin and English warning you of the dangers of getting your foot caught.
Duo, our driver, and Ying,
our aide/translator met me at the airport. W
e drove through the city so I could just see what was going on--lots of people getting out of work, more cars and fewer bikes that I saw last time, more tall buildings and fewer cranes than eight years ago. Arriving at the apartment was amazing. This place, at Maliandao Dongjie 15 (Tea Street East 15) is in a Chinese neighbborhood--I saw no tourists. It is, as you have guessed, lined with small tea shops. On a day when it's not raining, I understand the fragrance is sweet and delicious. I'm attaching photos. The apartment is lush and elegant. Because I am the older teacher, I get the huge master bedroom and Kacie will have the smaller one. The whole place is definitely fine.
Duo and Ying will return in a few minutes we can go out for supper. They were delighted to hear that I look forward to eating Chinese food and they don't have to find me pizza or fried chicken tonight.
I will write more soon.
Love,Ma/Chris
So much to write! You know the story already of getting to Logan and discovering that it didn't matter that we were there only 1.5 hours ahead of flight time instead of two, since the printers for the baggage claims and boarding passes weren't working, everything was delayed. Thanks to Jen's scouting brilliance, she discovered a short line for United International passengers a few minutes before the well-projected voice of the United Airlines official asked ALL int'l passengers to move to that queue. So there was only a family going to Addis Ababa, some vacationers headed to Aruba, and some to Mexico. I briefly wondered if a North Korean worm had caused this computer crisis, but forgot that thought until I was review the day later. Jen stayed with me until I had to go through security, and I held up pretty well, I think, considering...actually, I'm always fine unless I think about being away from family for seven weeks. This is an amazing adventure.
The flight to SFO was easy and fun. The woman who sat next to me, one year older and wearing a gorgeous teal blue/lime green travel dress & sweater, and I talked much of the way. She was a flight attendant for PanAm/United for 35 years and spent much of her time making a list of all the places she had spent time in--at least a week. That list covered three pages. She had another couple of pages of places where she just spent a day or two, and other list of places she just had flown to. Karachi and Beirut and Hong Kong and--oh, I can't name them all. We also talked about kids (she had her two boys when she was 42 & 43, so they're still in college) and husbands and career changes (she's a realtor now and wonders what she should do next...). I also watched Duplicity (funny, clever, convoluted), read American Shaolin, and knit for a while. Six and a half hours is a long time.
The SFO-PEK leg was twice as long. I had a great seat: the bulkhead, so plenty of leg room. On my right was a scientist returning home who had attended a conference at UC-Davis on Chinese-American cooperation on global climate change. On my left was a young mother from Denver, originally from Beijing, who was traveling to visit family--bringing her six-year old daughter for another visit & introducing her mother to her 18-month-old son (yes, I got--get--teary at the thought of that!). Three movies, more knitting, more reading, plus a crossword puzzle, Scrabble game, numerous conversations, many gluten-free meals & snacks, and a couple of semi-conscious naps.
We had to fill out health forms stating whether we had been exposed to H1N1 or had any symptoms and giving an address/phone number where we could be reached for seven days--we will be called by a health official once or twice a day (and taken to the hospital if we have symptoms). After we landed at the Beijing Airport (code PEK), we had to remain in our seats while a squad of HAZMAT-uniformed health workers came on board and scanned our foreheads with electronic thermometers. I wasn't able to find my camera in time to photograph them. Just imagine Clockwork Orange. We all seemed to have passed--no fevers, although the mother & her children next to me were scanned both coming and going, giving us a bit of a rise--for all passengers were allowed to disembark. You'll see in the photos that we had two more health screenings to go through before we got out of the airport.
The new terminal is amazing. if you've been to Beijing before, you might recall the terminal looked kind of like Manchester [NH]'s before it was updated. Now you can see it's glassy and spacious, with industrial steel supports arching above and moving walkways below. Artwork on the walls, female voices in both Mandarin and English warning you of the dangers of getting your foot caught.
Duo, our driver, and Ying,
our aide/translator met me at the airport. W
e drove through the city so I could just see what was going on--lots of people getting out of work, more cars and fewer bikes that I saw last time, more tall buildings and fewer cranes than eight years ago. Arriving at the apartment was amazing. This place, at Maliandao Dongjie 15 (Tea Street East 15) is in a Chinese neighbborhood--I saw no tourists. It is, as you have guessed, lined with small tea shops. On a day when it's not raining, I understand the fragrance is sweet and delicious. I'm attaching photos. The apartment is lush and elegant. Because I am the older teacher, I get the huge master bedroom and Kacie will have the smaller one. The whole place is definitely fine.Duo and Ying will return in a few minutes we can go out for supper. They were delighted to hear that I look forward to eating Chinese food and they don't have to find me pizza or fried chicken tonight.
I will write more soon.
Love,Ma/Chris
Saturday, July 11, 2009
There are no coincidences
Many of you, my dear friends and family, know this story--blah-blah-blah, she's telling it again! After graduating from the Rivier Nursing Program in May, I passed my NCLEX-RN exam on June 10 and fulfilled a life dream of becoming a registered nurse. I had submitted my retirement papers to the Conval School District (and been given a lovely party, so I knew it was real), so I'd be done with gainful employment as of June 30. I had applied for nursing jobs in the area, but had no idea if/when I'd get a position.
On June 17 (I do remember this date!) I got a call from the HR director of a nearby hospital who said she couldn't promise me anything, but things looked good for a job as a med/surg nurse in September. She encouraged me to apply for not just "new grad" jobs, but for other positions as well: people who had read my resumé liked what it said and would take my age, teaching career, and life experience into account. I loved that phone call! I started to relax and thought, "I'm going to be able to take the summer off. I'm not going to worry! This is GREAT!"
The next evening, June 18, I went to my first board meeting for SABEH (Sino-American Bridge for Education and Health) http://www.sino-americaneducation.org/sino-americaneducation.org/SABEH.html. SABEH, as you will see when you visit the website, is a non-profit designed to encourage the kind of cultural exchange I first became involved with 12 years ago when I started studying about/traveling to China. At this June 18 meeting, I met fellow Board member Kongli Liu who, besides his full-time job at Bryant College and his volunteer work with SABEH, was organizing the first Cultural Exchange Program between the Business College of Beijing Union University and American educators. Kongli told us he needed another teacher for this summer's program. My dear friend Anne Watt said, "Why not ask Chris, she has the summer free..." Kongli asked me and I said yes. So that was almost a month ago. Since then, I've fulfilled my final contract as a public school teacher, gone to NYC to get my Chinese visa, unpacked a thousand cartons containing 22 years of teaching stuff, found someone to kitty- and housesit while I'm away, celebrated Independence Day, played with grandchildren, created lesson plans in Conversational English and American Culture & Teaching, and eaten a lot of American ice cream (won't have an ice cream shoppe across from my apartment in Beijing!)
So, tomorrow at 6 AM, I will get on a United flight to San Francisco ( 6.5 hours) and then, after an hour & a half on the ground, will board another UA plane to fly from SFO to Beijing in 13 hours. After a week to acclimatize* myself, I will get started. The College is providing me (and the other American teacher, Kacie, who is very young and very well-traveled--she's been around the world!) an apartment at Maliandao Dongjie 15 in the heart of the Tea District. We also will have a guide/driver and interpreter/classroom assistant. We will go to the usual tourist spots in Beijing (Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, Badaling Great Wall site) and also to Xi'an (Terracotta Warriors) and more...
*Apparently officials in China are very concerned about Swine Flu. I mean H1N1. I'm told that when we disembark, someone will take our temperature. If we or anyone within 20 seats of us has a temp over 100° F (37.8° C), then we will be quarantined for a week. If no one has such a temp, then we just have to check in with a health official daily for a week. "Hello, yes, this is Christine. I feel FINE! I feel GOOD!"
Okay, it's time to log off. I will write often, will post pictures, and will love reading your comments and trying to answer your questions.
On June 17 (I do remember this date!) I got a call from the HR director of a nearby hospital who said she couldn't promise me anything, but things looked good for a job as a med/surg nurse in September. She encouraged me to apply for not just "new grad" jobs, but for other positions as well: people who had read my resumé liked what it said and would take my age, teaching career, and life experience into account. I loved that phone call! I started to relax and thought, "I'm going to be able to take the summer off. I'm not going to worry! This is GREAT!"
The next evening, June 18, I went to my first board meeting for SABEH (Sino-American Bridge for Education and Health) http://www.sino-americaneducation.org/sino-americaneducation.org/SABEH.html. SABEH, as you will see when you visit the website, is a non-profit designed to encourage the kind of cultural exchange I first became involved with 12 years ago when I started studying about/traveling to China. At this June 18 meeting, I met fellow Board member Kongli Liu who, besides his full-time job at Bryant College and his volunteer work with SABEH, was organizing the first Cultural Exchange Program between the Business College of Beijing Union University and American educators. Kongli told us he needed another teacher for this summer's program. My dear friend Anne Watt said, "Why not ask Chris, she has the summer free..." Kongli asked me and I said yes. So that was almost a month ago. Since then, I've fulfilled my final contract as a public school teacher, gone to NYC to get my Chinese visa, unpacked a thousand cartons containing 22 years of teaching stuff, found someone to kitty- and housesit while I'm away, celebrated Independence Day, played with grandchildren, created lesson plans in Conversational English and American Culture & Teaching, and eaten a lot of American ice cream (won't have an ice cream shoppe across from my apartment in Beijing!)
So, tomorrow at 6 AM, I will get on a United flight to San Francisco ( 6.5 hours) and then, after an hour & a half on the ground, will board another UA plane to fly from SFO to Beijing in 13 hours. After a week to acclimatize* myself, I will get started. The College is providing me (and the other American teacher, Kacie, who is very young and very well-traveled--she's been around the world!) an apartment at Maliandao Dongjie 15 in the heart of the Tea District. We also will have a guide/driver and interpreter/classroom assistant. We will go to the usual tourist spots in Beijing (Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, Badaling Great Wall site) and also to Xi'an (Terracotta Warriors) and more...
*Apparently officials in China are very concerned about Swine Flu. I mean H1N1. I'm told that when we disembark, someone will take our temperature. If we or anyone within 20 seats of us has a temp over 100° F (37.8° C), then we will be quarantined for a week. If no one has such a temp, then we just have to check in with a health official daily for a week. "Hello, yes, this is Christine. I feel FINE! I feel GOOD!"
Okay, it's time to log off. I will write often, will post pictures, and will love reading your comments and trying to answer your questions.
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